Journal of Dr. John Morgan of the city of Philadelphia, from the city of Rome to the city of London, 1764.

[[Loretto]]

They shew here as a Miracle a Pear of a large size on w'ch [which] is a very bad cameo of the Medonna & Child - They tell you Pearl cannot be wrought then indeed is so all done as to pretty well to confirm the remark; but they show just by a Head well wrought a Cameo of a Mans Head -

The legend of the Me Pearl & Medonna is as follows -

A Fisherman having promised to dedicate every thing which he caught within that year of the Virgin Mary, toil'd [toiled] continually but caught nothing till the last day of the year, when this Pearl thus wrought with the effigies of the Medona & Child presented itself -

The Story, say they serves to shew that the Medonna was willing by a mircale to shew her Influence as well as disinterestedness - for, say they, from that time forward the following year, the fisherman caught abundance of Pearl so as to enrich himself & family - a well told story taken all together, especially when we consider the disinterested = = ness of Medonna unwilling to glare the Eyes of Morals with any diving workmanship was content to have her effigies & that of our Savior doubtless execu = = ted?] by her own hand, wrought in to humble & [?] simple a

[[Loretto]]

a Stile that it might well enough be taken for the work of a Delectante

We next saw - the spicierie or apothecary's shop, w'ch [which] I believe is not to be parallel'd [paralleled] in its way - The Pots are said to be the work of [[Raphael]] - on w'ch [which] are painted & enamelled, many things both from Sacred & Profane History - of the latter kind Ovids Metamorphoses compose the Subjects - in some of w'ch [which] the nudities of nature, especially in the female sex are depainted with great freedom & appearance of accuracy -

There are many Histories from the old Testament - There are four Pots on w'ch [which] the four Evangelists are painted, for w'ch [which] the french Ambassad'r [Ambassador] it is said offered as many pots of Massy gold but could not obtain them -

A Story more common & tite than plausible whether we consider the Sum w'ch [which] was offered, or the Disposition of those to whom it was offered free from all Motive of Gain or Love of Lucre -

For my own part I could not help thinking this a Work unworthy the Pencil of [[Reubens]], when we consider that it was designed for an Apothecary Shop, & him as occupied in Subjects of ye [the] highest importance

[[Loretto]]

On the other hand it is said, that it was designed for the Shop Apothecarys Shop of his reigning Sovereign the [[Duke of Urbino]] who afterwards presented it to the holy house - & that this might shew the great & extensive Genius of [[Raphael]], & that he was unrvillaed in every species of Painting -

I believe this to be the most finish'd Work of the kind & showing a very masterly hand - from some Instances I thought it might not be the Work of [[Raphael]] but of some of his Scholars, of gr't [great] Genius, but less Reputation - but in most instances it appeared from the Variety & Execution to be a work w'ch [which] proclaimed the great Pencil of Raphael -

We next went to the Vault or Wine Cellar w'ch [which] very large - & were shewn a Cantena or But of a great Size; w'ch [which] they told us as a Miracle of the Virgin gave out three sorts of Wine, by the same Cock when only one was poured into it - Th It was behind a sort of Counter - w'ch [which] we were not allowed to pass

[[Loretto]]

By the Manuvre of the operating Priest it appeared to me, that there were three different Vessels in this Butt containing each a distinct Wine, & that the Cock had 3 diffe = = rent Issues with as many springs, so that in turning it round artfully he procured as many different Wines - w'ch [which] he said were all differ't [different] in Colour & Quality - In the Col'r [Color] they were so, but all agreed in one Quality ie of being very sower, w'ch [which] made one thing the Medonna not so much anxious of commending the goodness of the Wine as the Nature of the Miracle - But to make amends for 2 Pauls the Priest gave us some excellent Wine from another Butt intended for the Bishop & Gover = nor of the House.

The Trade of the Town seems to be in Beads. Rosaries & for Pilgrims w'ch [which] are very cheap - & the People who subsist on little else are not very rich -

The Country ab't [about] it is pleasant - rich & well cultivated, yet the People appeare poor abject wretches - The whole of them beggars - kissing the Dust of the Earth as you pass, & beg for alms as if all their Relations were in purgatory &

([[Sinagnlia]]) In journeying from [[Rome]]

& only to be redeemed from there at the price of their beggary -

We left [[Loretto]] ab't [about] 4 OClock - travelled for the most part of the night - passed [[Ancona]] & several little Towns or Villages on the Sea Shore, & July 11th abt. [about] six OClock in the Morning reached Sinigaglia [[Senigallia]] ab't [about] Miles from [[Rome]] - a Town on the Sea Shore, but not very remarkable - at this time they were making preparations for an approaching fair w'ch [which] begins July 14 & lasts to the end of the Month -

After dinner we proceeded to [[Fanno]] 15 Miles further, a fortified Town on the Sea Shore, said to contain 15,000 Inhabitants & to be remarkable for some of the beautifullest Women in [[Italy]] - What I saw of them were generally handsome, but did not see many of those who might be supposed to surpass the Italian Ladies in other places -

July ye [the] 12th: Went this morning to see some Churches in w'ch [which] were the following excellent Paintings - viz In