Journal of Dr. John Morgan of the city of Philadelphia, from the city of Rome to the city of London, 1764.

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  • UPenn Ms. Codex 1637
  • Record of a trip with fellow Philadelphian Samuel Powel, from Rome northward through Bologna, Padua, Venice, Milan, and Turin, over the Alps to Geneva, and through Lyons and Paris to Calais, by boat to Dover, and from there to London. The entries include many details on landscape, architecture, art, and inscriptions. Morgan also describes meetings with prominent individuals such as Giambattista Morgagni, professor of anatomy at the Università di Padova, and the philosopher Voltaire. On leaves at the end of the volume (f. 138v-140r) are lists of books, natural and artificial curiosities, plates (prints) and drawings, and paintings shipped home to Philadelphia by Morgan. The books include works of Morgagni published in Venice, "novels" of Boccaccio in Italian published in Amsterdam, Voltaire's Tancrède published in Geneva, and Benjamin Franklin on electricity in 3 parts published in London. There are additional notes by Morgan about expenses at the beginning (under the flap, inside upper cover) and miscellaneous notes at the end (f. 141v; inside lower cover).

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    Journey from [[Rome]] to [[Bolognia]]

    Mr. Powel & I left

    Left [[Rome]] on friday evening July ye [the] 6, 1764 in Company with [[Mr. Powel]] for Bolognia [[Bologna]] in our Return to [[england]]; got into the Chaise between eight and nine OClock. Travelled slowly all night -

    July 7 - abt. [about] 8 OClock this morning we stopped at [[Civita Castellana]] 34 miles from [[Rome]], and laid by during the heat of the day, not being able to travel from this hour till abt 7 OClock in the afternoon - This town is not large; it is build on a rock; its access on all sides steep; & seems to have been chosen for security, perhaps during the civil War in [[Italy]] -

    July 8 Having travelled on till midnight we passed the Town of [[Ohicoli]] & had scarcely got two miles when the chaise wheel broke down on the Top of a naked Hill - we were obliged to remain in this situation without any pl House to retire to till morning - it was near seven OClock before we could proceed on our Route - w'ch [which] we did till we came to the town of [[Terni]], abt. [about] 62 Miles from [[Rome]] - where we stopped abt. [about] 12 oclock & waited for Dinner having broke down our Chaise a 2nd time upon entering ye [the] Town =

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    Cascade of Tirni

    After dinner we rode out on Horse back to view the famous [[Cascade of Tirni]] abt. [about] three of four Miles off, a most astonish= ing & sublime sight_ Tis formed by a great Body of water w/ch [which] has the Name of the [[River Velino]], being at some distance from its fall about 20 feet wide, & above 8 feet deep close to the shore, as I was not able to touch Bottom with a Pole of that Length; tho' [though] in other places it is filled with Rocks, the Tops of w/ch [which] are nearly equal with the Surface of the River_ The Course of it is prodigiously rapid; it narrows somewhat near the fall, & tumbles down a precipice perhaps not less than three hundred feet, in a white foamey Column, +It spreads[ing] as it falls, [&] dashing down agains the rocks beneath with such force & impetuosity as by its concussion to communicate a tremulous motion thro' [through] a Promontory or jetting rock on the opposite part of the Basin quite to the summit w/ch [which] does not appear less than 200 feet high _

    + y/e [the] circling ringlets following each othr. [other] in quick Succession [glance on y/e [the] Eye] like lightning glance on y/e [the] Eye of ye [the] Spectator._

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    Cascade of Tirni

    The Appearance where it falls is like that of a boiling Caldron of an immense Size; the force of the falling water is such that by dashing against the rocks beneath it forms a thick Vapor w/ch [which] rises as high as the [[Mount Marmores]] from whence through [still] the high[er] hills it directs its Course to the Cascade_

    Rolling from hence in [white] boiling foamey surges 30 or 40 Yards it is joined by the smaller & more placid river [[Nera]] w/ch [which] it enlarges two thirds, & directs its Course through abrupt craggy rocks, winding round a Hill, & spreads itself through a rich fruitfull & pleasant Vale. Tis without doubt a noble Object for a perspective or landskip Painter, suggesting the most pleasing & sublime thoughts to a warm imagination_

    We left [[Terni]] about seven OClock in the Evening & travelled till Midnight; then stopp'd [stopped] till seven or eight OClock next Morning at [[Spoleto]] abt. [about] 90 Miles from [[Rome]], having passed thro' [through] the Town & lodged at an Inn just beyond the Gate of the Town_

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    Journey from [[Rome]] to Bolognia [[Bologna]]

    Monday July ye [the] 9 = As it rained this morning we pursued our Journey towards Bolognia [[Bologna]] without going off of the Road to see a large [arch?] of a Bridgeaqueduct not far off taken notice off by Travellers

    We stopped to dinner at [[Foligno]] w'ch [which] is just 100 miles from [[Rome]]; after dinner went into the Nuns Church called [[Le Contessa]] where we saw a fine Picture of the Virgin upon clouds hold'g [holding the Child Jesus surrounded with angels - & below St. John & three other Saints in Act of Adoration - very finely painted by the great [[Raphael]] -

    After dinner we continued our Rout till Midnight, thro' [through] bad Roads when we came to a small Village distant about 120 miles from [[Rome]] - We staid here about 3 or 4 hours to rest a little & to refresh the Mules w'ch [which] drew us -

    Tuesday July ye [the] 10th - Continued our Rout from between 2 & 3 OClock in the morning to the insignificant village of [[Valcimara]] abt 134 miles from [[Rome]] - dined here & set out, after dinner between 3 &4 OClock to pursue our Journey

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