A Trip Around the World, 1910-1911

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Had Ohara dine with me and went out on Gainza afterwards. Bought horse statuette, which Ohara says is celebrated samurai warrior Nanko.

September 18th.

Spent the morning writing and at 1:00 Ohara called and took me to the Imperial Museum. En route we saw a Buddhist funeral with its pilgrims and its gorgeous display of lotus plants in gilt, etc. At Imperial Museum we saw the famous tramping boards and stones on which recanting Christians trod on Christian emblems; also the public notices outlawing Christianity, one of these being dated only 42 years ago! From there went to Asakusa Kwannon temple, and returning to hotel bought three Hearn books in which Ohara inscribed my name in Japanese.

September 19th.

Spent morning writing to friends at home, and at 12:30 Ohara called and conducted me to the Agricultural College where I had an appointment with the Director, Dr. Matsui. Went through farm and saw crops and Japanese at work in them and had interesting interview with Dr. Matsui, after which he conducted me through the Agricultural Museum. Returning, called on Dr. T. Watase, of the Tokyo Seed Plant Co., and later on Mr. Ihari of the Japanese Times, who discussed the religious outlook here very interestingly.

At night went to Methodist Publishing House, Ginza, where I wished to attend a meeting.

September 20th.

Wished to see Bishop Ebina whom Ohara had recommended to me,

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and after nearly losing my religion over my rikshaman's failures, stopped at a mission school to inquire and had a most interesting conversation with Miss M.A. Clagett, 101 Hara Machi, Koishikawa, a Baptist mission teacher, native of Louisville, Ky. Afterward found Bishop Ebina and had most interesting conversation with him on religious outlook, and saw a typical Japanese home on the the inside. Tea and a queer sort of cake served to us while we talked.

In afternoon called on Department of Education and got information I wished and after about an hour's trip to reach Bishop Hondo, head of the Japanese Methodist Church in Japan, found that he is in America. Called at Japan Times office again and had interesting conversation with the sub Editor.

September 21st.

After writing a letter visited the Japanese Department of Commerce and Agriculture but found no officer who could speak English satisfactorily. Next called at office of "Kokumin Shimbum-sha" and inquired for Editor Tokomoti Soho, but he being absent in Korea, met Mr. S. Shihotsu, who showed me through the shop and arranged to call at my hotel at 5 p.m. to discuss the protective tariff. Next called on Japanese Advertiser and met Mr. B.W. Fleisher, who vigourously denounced Japanese morals. After tiffin had interesting conversation with Mr. Takahashi, Editor of the Japan Times.

At 7:00 Ohara called and we went together to a genuine high-class Japanese restaurant where we had dinner in native

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style. My shoes left at the door, we sat on mats and ate the bon-ton native food and I reckoned myself fortunate in completing the meal with chop-sticks without once resorting to the knife and fork which the young Japanese woman brought me as a life-preserver. She pronounced me "very skillful" which compliment I thought, however, a rather extreme illustration of Japanese courtesy. I by no means begrudge the six yen the experience cost, but so far as sheer enjoyment of food is concerned I should rather have five cents worth of cheese and crackers or a penny stick of striped candy. Soup, raw fish, two kinds of cooked fish with Oriental sauce and no bread, a kind of nut (so I was told) that tasted like a sweet potato and was best of all, Japanese green tea (they use no cream or sugar in it) and their national drink, sake, which was also too Japanesy in taste for my palate. The nicest thing about the meal was the pretty Japanese girl who waited on us, with whom I talked with Ohara as interpreter. We had no singers or dancers as Ohara said cultured gentlemen do not; that only the lower classses do, as a rule; but there was music near-by in the less honorable room to which we first went--"music" for all the world like "tuning up" in America and nothing else--literally and absolutely. I now understand the Li Hung Chang story!

September 22nd.

In morning read with much interest Percival Lowell's "Soul of the Far East" and other Japanese books after which I did some writing, immediately after tiffin going to see Dr. Juichi Soyeda, President of the Industrial Bank of Japan, and one

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of the Empire's leading statesman and financiers, ViceMinster in Okuma's cabinet, etc., etc. Found him very interesting. Then went with Ohara through Imperial Palace Grounds, etc., seeing statues of Japanese notables, trophies of the Russian War, etc.

Ohara is a descendent of the samuria, and is to give me a letter of introduction to a friend in Kysoto University who may act as a guide for me there and is, he says, the son of a diamyo.

September 23rd.

Arranged this morning to lunch tomorrow with Viscount Kaneko and to call Sunday on Count Okuma. Also went to Yokohama Specie Bank to get another $50 note cashed--money simply evaporates here. After tiffin called on Mr. Sonada, President of the Fifteenth Bank, and spent rest of afternoon and evening writing an article for my paper.

September 24th.

Spent morning writing and reading and at 1:45 went to call on Viscount Kentaro Kaneko, Privy Councillor of the Emperor of Japan and ex-Minister of Agriculture and Commerce. A graduate and an L.L.D. of Harvard and five times a visitor to America. I found him not only cultured, thoughtful and wellinformed, but a fluent speaker of English, too. Was impressed by the obsequiousness of the man-servant who humbly squatted on the floor every time in addressing the Viscount.

September 25th.

Today I had the distinguished privilege of over two hours with Count Okuma, former Prime Minister of Japan, and one

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of the Genro (Elder Statesmen) and founders of Japan. He has a beautiful home and perhaps the most magnificent garden I have ever seen. I found him very vigorous for a man of his years, and so much interested in the questions we discussed that I do not know when we should have quit had not a servant entered at 12:30 (I came at 10:00) to remind him of a funeral he was due to attend. We talked through an interpreter, Prof. Shiozawa, of Waseda University -- the great institution founded by Count Okuma; but the Count semed to understand a good deal of English, as he several times broke into the Professor's interpretation with some humorous supplementary remark, a winning and good-natured old man's laugh adding zest to his conversation. He kept me so late that I missed another engagement -- with Mr. S. Chiba, but I saw him later.

Then Ohara came at 3:30 and we spent several hours at Maruzin's bookstore, after which we had dinner, walked through the Park, and I wrote some letters. Capt. Buchanan and I expected to leave tomorrow morning, but his doctor does not think his carbuncle sufficiently well yet, and I am getting into the swim here so well, from the standpoint of an investigator, that I am glad to stay another day or so.

September 26th. This morning writing. This afternoon had an engagement with Baron Yichi Shibusawa, one of the most eminent bankers and financiers in the Empire. He is 70 years old and Count Okuma 72, but both seem remarkably hale and vigorous for their years. Also called later on Mr. Ihari of the Japan Times.