A Trip Around the World, 1910-1911

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September 27th. An interesting day, going in the morning to the Stock Exchange where the incongruity of men in haori and kimonas, their getas left at the door, bidding for stocks in all the wild fury of a New York pit, was memorable. From there I went to see Mr. Oka of the Department of Commerce and Agriculture, by arrangement with Viscount Kaneko, and from there to see Mr. Shihotsu, of the Japanese paper (the printers were singing again) who gave me no more introductions. At the hotel I found Mr. Chiba waiting for tiffin, and after arranging a visit to the cotton factory tomorrow, he took me to the home of a lady whom he pronounced the best singer in Japan -- and she was tiptop, her rendering of . . . . . 's "Jerusalem" being especially fine. She also sang in one or two other languages. Was somewhat humiliated when removing my shoes to find three or four loud and irrepressible holes in the toe, but was consoled later when Mr. Chiba said that President Taft had the same humiliation when he visited a tea house here. Later called on Editor Penlingon of the Japan Times, who doesn't think much of the Japs, -- except of their shrewdness and cunning.

September 28th Started day by visiting the British Embassy for information, after which I had an interesting interview with Dr. Nitobe, Professor of Economics in the Imperial University. At 1:40 Mez and I went to the famous Kanagafuchi cotton factory where Director Fuji showed us distinguished consideration, giving most of the afternoon to information, explanation and exhibition of his great enterprise employing 3,500 operatives and

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and with a welfare system--greatest surprise of all--based on the famous Krupp model in Germany.

Glad to see Buchanan back after two days at Miyanoshita and will join him at Kyoto. Disappointed in not having Ohara dine with me my last night here, as he had to attend a Buddhist memorial service in honor of his "master" as he said. Am leaving Tokyo tomorrow--at last!

Spetember 29th. Ohara came at 7:40 and after breakfast went with me to Shimbashi Station where I caught the 9:05 train for Yokohoma. Sorry to part from Ohara as he is a fine fellow. At Yokohoma called at American Consulate, talking with Vice-Consul Bobbitt, and at British with Mr. Boulter. At 1:52 left for Kodzu where I went by electric car a few miles further, and then had a 6-1/2 mile mountain climb, along ravines, waterfalls, and passes in the dark (a rikshaman carrying my luggage) till I reached Fuji-ya Hotel, Miyanoshita--a most delightful hotel, with open fires and a royal dinner to reward me for my labors.

September 30th. Rained all day and I spent the time writing.

October 1st. Still raining. I gave up hope of going to Hakone, and caught an early train from Kodzu for Kyoto. Had a magnificent view of snow-capped Fuji, the clouds lifting in its direction, for probably an hour. It is indeed a magnificent sight. My fellow passengers were a high-caste Japanese with a rich rug in which he sat, read, and slept; a Yokohoma lady (Mrs. McArthur) and a Mrs. Smith of Vladivostok, who gave me a word of introduction

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to Consul Green of Harbin if I go there. At 7:35 reached Kyoto and a half hour's riksha ride brought me to my hotel, the Mikayo.

October 2nd. Kyoto, engirt with mountains, is beautifully situated -- much like Salt Lake City. Fine view this morning: it is pleasant to see the light of the sun again. Leaving hotel at 10:30 went to Buddhist Temple service, near Imperial Palace -- strikingly like Catholic. Gorgeously arrayed priest sat on eminence with staff and half-drawled, half-chanted something, tapers burning below and other priests in vestment. Well-dressed crowds sitting. Later retired to hall in rear to drink sake, I understood. Then attended services at Union Church (Congregational) Doshisha. Very impressive in this foreign land. Delighted to meet Dr. Sidney L. Gulick and arranged to take tea with him this evening. A very charming man with an equally charming family. About 7:30 left with him for Japanese church, services in native tongue. I did not remain long, of course. The congregation seemed very intelligent and earnest.

October 3rd. Arose early and went to the 7:30 chapel service at the Congregational School (Doshisha). Hundreds of fine-looking Japanese boys singing "How Firm a Foundation", with prayer and Scripture reading in Japanese. Dr. Gulick showed me the first verse of Genesis: "In the origin of things heaven and earth make God honorably did."

From Doshisha I went to the Temple (Shinto) Ketano Tenjin. Saw the bull which people rub to ease their own pains. After this went to the Kinkaku-ji Buddhist temple where the

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most wonderful sight is a pine tree cut and trained like a ship. The whole garden is very beautiful and the lake is full of carp that came ravenously open-mouthed to the surface when the delighfully sturdy and serious-minded Japanese boy-attendant clapped his hands. Next visited the Imperial Palace, which I found not very impressive, though a screen picture of wild geese and another of plum blossoms were very fine. The room in which the present Mikado took the oath to give a constitution and "seek out learning in all the world" is not shown. In the afternoon visited Art Museum with many well-carved wooden statues. After this saw the earth mound in which are the noses and ears of Koreans killed in one of the early wars. The temple of the 33,333 Kwannon was worth seeing, and while in the new Hongwanji temple I saw an interesting Buddhist service. Tried to get some shoes at a shoe store but No. 6 was their largest! Went to Dr. Gulick's for tea.

October 4th. After breakfast and some letters struck out with Mr. and Mrs. Slack, Lt. and Mrs. Morrison and little four-year-old Virginia and Capt. Buchanan to see the two Hongwanji temples, all in rikshas. At the first temple little Virginia and I took in the sights together and the rest of the morning was mostly a frolic with her. She is a delightful little curly-haired four-yearold and I enjoyed this touch of child-life more than the temple's beauties. Saw the cables of human hair used in building the new Hongwanji, and was disappointed in the old one, as its are is by no means impressive. Next we went to a geisha school where fifty or a hundred girls from 10 to 16 are in training.

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Music was of the same unspeakable order, but the light-eyed little creatures in their long and handsome dresses looked so quaint that I felt as if I had run up on a bevy of Bre'r Rabbit's little girls. Little Virgina was a show to them and she nearly broke up the school; whether it was she or they who enjoyed the incident most I do not know. The sight of a little American child was also pleasing to the crowds we passed through and her calling to them evoked such responses as to make our progress a sort of ovation. After swearing eternal fealty to each other I bade the little damsel goodbye after tiffin, going to interview Prof. E. Tajina, of Tokyo University. At 4:48 caught train for Osaka. Somewhat disquieted by reports of cholera there, while at Kobe the situation is serious indeed.

October 5th. The cholera situation is worse here than I thought--victims dying every few hours, and if I were not very desirous about getting some first-hand information about Osaka, I should seek a more peaceful retreat. Called early to see a Mr. Kennedy, after which I went to the Mousselaine de laine Spinning & Weaving Company, in company with a very courteous city official. Operatives number 2,500, mostly girls and young women, many of the children being pitifully small, though this factory is at this point immensely superior to the cotton mills, where child-life is exploited shamelessly. Operatives pay 8 sen for board. Night school, two hours attendance, compulsory on all under 14. This is how the law is evaded in factories, I see.

In afternoon visited Mr. T. Ishibashi, Editor of the