A Trip Around the World, 1910-1911

57

developments resulting.

Just before noon went to St. Thomas Cathedral, and saw the supposed grave of St, Thomas (though as to this I am myself a doubting Thomas) and the great car of Juggernaut, with wheels 9 feet high and about 18 inches thick.

January 31st.

Had an interesting day. An hour's interview in the morning with an eminent Hindoo leader, Mr. Krishna-Swami-Iyer. An interesting peep at the High Court and the richly clad but barefooted Hindoo lawyers. A trip of inspection through the cotton mill which employs about 4,000 Hindoos. In the afternoon and hour's interview with Mr. Couchman, Director of Agriculture. Left at 5:50 or thereabouts for Madura.

Feb. 1st.

Arrived at Madura about 11 a.m. and found a carriage drawn by bullocks waiting to take me out to see Rev. J. P. Jones. He took charge of me in the afternoon and went with me to see the famous Temple, the palace, the banyan tree, the mission schools and hospital, lake temple, etc., besides telling me a great many delightful stories of Indian life.

February 2nd.

Said a few words to Dr. Jone's students which were translated into Tamil. Visited the school farm. Then went thirdclass at a cost of half an anna to Madura, and revisited the Palace, with its marvelously beautiful columns, and the Temple, with its marvelously disgusting filth. Just before night-fall boarded the steamer for Colombo and bade farewell to India.

February 3rd.

Landed at Colombo at 8:00 a.m. and after seeing Cook's

58

and getting lunch took the train for Kandy. A very picturesque route through tropical jungle, tea plantations, rubber plantations, etc. Glad to fin Capt. Buchanan at the Queen's.

February 4th.

Went for a ride through the Botanical Gardens with Capt. Buchanan. Greatly interested in seeing nutmeg trees (something like double-size thornless hollies), clove trees,rubber trees, palm leaf fan trees, orchids, and the sensitive plant; also bats as large as crows. Returned to Colombo in the afternoon.

February 5th.

Up early, got breakfast (after writing a few postals) and took my luggage to the pier where at 10:00 o'clock a launch took me to my steamer, the "Buelow", which will be my home for two weeks. There was considerable excitement over a case of smallpox amonng the passengers -- a lady who was carried to the hospital in Colombo. Vaccinated this afternoon.

After so much strenuous travel, glad to rest on shipboard awhile.

February 8th.

At work on my article on "The Caste System in India." Weather quite warm but not uncomfotably so in thin clothing.

February 10th.

Finished my article on "The Plight od the Indian Woman." We are having a thoroughly delightful voyage. In fact, I believe I have not had a rainy day since I was at Nankou Pass early in November --although we had a few showers in Singapore and perhaps other places.

59

Some good card games with young ladies tonight, including new game (to me)"I doubt it."

February 11th

Reached Aden early in the morning but did not land. A great nuber and great variety of traders, mostly black Africans, came in boats, with Ostrich plumes, eggs, beads, horns, tiger or leopard skins, etc. What we have been able to see of Arabia today is an utterly barren desert.

More games tonight by a party of younger folk. The young ladies aboard are quite charming.

February 12th.

Mr. Bachelor of Coldwater, Mich., preached. Sea still smooth, good food; and a pleasant party aboard. The steward of the shop has the happy faculty of remembering everybody's name -- a trait which adds so largely to his popularity that I plan to try cultivating it myself.

My room-mate is Mr. Prillwits, a German born in Russia. He is an ex-officer in the German Army and was wounded in fighting natives in Africa.

February 13th.

Weather surprisingly rough, but I really enjoyed the day best of the entire voyage. The waves broke in great sheets of spray like a snowstorm. Our fancy dress ball, at which I had planned to appear as a Hindoo, was called off. We are well in the Red Sea and Mecca is to out right over in Arabia.

One of the little girls I liked most aboard speaks English, German and Japanese--at nine years old! Lillie Abegg of Hamburg.

60

February 14th

Calmer this morning, we took up the sports postponed from yesterday. Miss Adams of Cleveland and I led off in the Bottle Race, and Mrs. Abegg and I were in the Threading the Needle, in which I come out second in the whole group by good running.

A delightful bunch of young ladies and little children aboard.

The sports are interesting me so much that I can easily believe that I should have become absorbed in them if I had gone to college.

February 15th

The last day of the sports and though I won no prizes, I came off with honour--among those of the foremost rank in practically everything I entered. Miss Barbara Sutton of San Francisco was my partner in the Knotting the Tie race.

At daybreak we entered the Suez Canal, and the whole way has been through a desert that is Sahara enough fo me. Last night passed that was pointed out as Mt. Sinai by an experienced traveler.

February 16th

Reached Port Said, Egypt, early in the morning and went ashore, regretfully parting with a number of my best friends--Maj. and Mrs. T. L. Ames of Rock Island and little Adelaide, Miss Sutton and her parents, the Lamprechts, and the Browns.

Found Port Said much like a European city. The statue of De Lesseps at the head of the Canal, with the waves breaking at its base and the spray leaving half the pedestal, I

61

thought very impressive.

February 17th.

Quite a sea this morning, which lasted pretty well through the day. In the afternoon we passed Crete with its snowcovered hills giving it a decidedly frigid appearance. Am reading Dante's "Vision" and "Sherlock Holmes"--but I am finishing Sherlock quickest! Weather quite cool today.

February 18th.

Finished my last article on India and feel much relieved.

February 19th.

A beautiful warm morning. About 3 o'clock we landed at Naples and viewing scenes familiar from my previous visit, I recognized that I had girdled our planet. I hope, however, it will be long before I girdle another.

Went in company with Mr. Barnhardt, a fine chap, to the Aquarium, which we found disappointing, and to the grave of Virgil, from which I brought some ivy as souvenirs. Had a dandy meal with Mr. Barnhardt and returned to my ship about 10 p.m.

February 20th.

The Beulow left at 8 o'clock for Genoa. Sea rather rough. We have averaged about 350 miles a day since leaving Colombo. Finished Dante's "Vision".

February 21st.

Reached Genoa bright and early, but saw little of the town except the statue of Columbus and what I could glimpse from a run to Cook's office and back to the station.

Left at 11:20 for Paris. Much snow in northern Italy, and the mountains snow-clad and rosy tinted like a woman's