A Trip Around the World, 1910-1911

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Afternoon called on His Excellency Tang-Shao-yi, President of the Board of Posts and Communications, one of the Emperor's Cabinet, and had an hour's interview. Started article for Progressive Farmer. Excellent music for dinner. Cloud and I ate together and we counted nine distinct nationalities in the dining room to say nothing of subdivisions such as Irish-British, Australian-British, CanadianBritish, etc.

November 9th. In the morning talked with Dr. Tenney and Minister Calhoun of the American Legation. At 1:30 started with Dr. Tenney to see the Chinese National Assembly. They were having a red hot time and were demanding that the Grand Council of the Empire by summoned before them to explain an alleged breach of the rights of Provincial Assemblies. Fiery speeches were made. At 4:00 called on Mr. Alfred Sze, a Cornell graduate now in the office of Foreign Affairs.

November 10th. Spent the morning writing and at one went to Minister Calhoun's for tiffin. A very enjoyable party. After tiffin Mr. Calhoun received telegram announcing sweeping Democratic victory in America.

Called by to see my friend Moore, seriously hurt by a fall from a horse.

November 11th. Worked on my article on "The New China." At 4:30 went to a reception at Mrs. Calhoun's where I met a number of Americans and Herr Dernberg, the famous German statesman. Fearful dust

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storm this evening. Dined with Dr. and Mrs. Luther Anderson.

November 12th. Finished my Chinese article. Went with Dr. Tenney and Dr. Goodrich to the afternoon session of the Tzucheng Yuan. Bought some photographs and went to see Chun and Li Shang Ling of the Peking Daily News.

November 13th. Chun called early and together we went to see the Temple of Heaven, one of the most beautiful places of interest about Peking. Fine crisp morning and a glorious trip. Afterward went to Temple of Agriculture and saw the place where the Emperor (now the Prince Regent) annually plows sixteen furrows as a tribute to the importance of agriculture.

In the afternoon Chun and I took a long walk on the city wall, after which I called to see the Tenneys. Miss Sheldon is especially attractive.

November 14th. Called in the morning at the Imperial College of Languages and met Mr. Alfred E. Kung, a descendant of Confucius (Kung Futzu) of the seventy-fifth generation. He is a very attractive young fellow, and my friend Dr. Anderson, says he has ambition, ability, high character and wealth, and will make his mark. I was delighted at his promise to write a scroll for me showing my favorite Confusian text in Chinese. Sent the scroll up this afternoon and he did it and returned it with a letter offering me also a copy of Confucius in Chinese and English.

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In afternoon called to see the Tenneys, Mr. Calhoun, Dr. and Mrs. Anderson, Mr. and Mrs. Moore, saying good-bye as if I were leaving home.

November 15th. Wearne had me at his right at a great dinner party last night, which didn't break up till after midnight. Then I had to get up very early and pack. Chun came by for me and went with me to the depot where the Tenneys introduced me to Mr. L. Brewitt-Taylor of Bangkok.

Delighted to find Dr. Timothy Richard of Shanghai on the train.

November 16th. Went to bed early last evening. Had interesting talk with Brewitt-Taylor on Siam, and with Dr. Richard on China. The Doctor listened to my article on China and was delighted with it.

Reached Hankou about 4 p. m. and after risking my life in getting through the mob of coolies for my unchecked baggage, went to Terminus Hotel. Sent a note to Miss Cheshire across the River in Wuchang. Met Mr. A. E. Lloyd, Jr., of Durham, with American Tobacco Co. here. Failed to get steamer ticket for Shanghai as men were at the races.

November 17th. After breakfast sent my luggage down to the S. S. "Kutwo" leaving for Shanghai tonight. After two trips to bank and paying 3% discount (the steamship company charge is 5 1/2%) got my money changed and my ticket paid for--$40.80. Then I called to see American Consul, Mr. Masher, expecting to get note from him enabling me to see Hanyang Steel & Iron Works. Found it too

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late. After tiffin got coolie from ^Mr. Sherman^ of American Church mission to go with me across river to see Miss Cheshire. A friend had advised me not to go if the Yangste proved too rough for steam launch to run (as it was) but when my coolie hailed a native sampan, I got on and trusted to the Lord and luck. It wasn't so bad as I thought. Had a very interesting talk, walk, and tea with Miss Cheshire and started back across the Yangste in a rocking little sampan just as a gorgeous full moon rose in the East. Hailed a riksha man and made a special trip to Hotel Terminus to tell hotel ^manager^ that he is either a liar or a scouldrel, which I did more or less directly. He had charged me $1.50 for sending a note across the river to Miss Cheshire, yesterday, whereas I went and came today for 20 cents.

November 18th. Boat started for Shanghai at 9:00 last night, and at 9:00 this morning we stopped at Kuikiang where my room-mate, Mr. Cleggy (on his way to San Francisco to be married) went with me through the unspeakably dirty streets of the native city. In another quarter we found some silversmiths and made some purchases. Boat resumed its trip about noon. I completed my article for The Progressive Farmer.

November 19th. There was a sunrise this morning such as would have rejoiced the heart of an artist. As I looked out my cabin window a most gorgeous display of clouds glorified the whole Eastern sky, and against its gold and crimson stood the low, black outlines of the Chinese village, the harbor with its forest of ship and

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junk masts, and towering above all the picturesque outline of a Chinese pagoda. About noon we reached Nanking, only its great wall visible. A beautiful trip today, the Yangste perhaps 20 miles wide in places and enlivened by a continuous line of Chinese traffic carried in unique vessels reminding one of the pictures of the old Greek and Roman ships. Passed Woosung famous in the Taiping Rebellion, and other interesting places, reaching .......... at night-fall. Read "Mr. Opp" today--a characer worthy of Dickens.

November 20th. After a most interesting talk with Dr. Skinner of Hankow we reached Shanghai about 11:00 where I was greatly delighted to find a liberal batch of mail forwarded from Hong Kong. Spent the afternoon reading and answering it and doing some other writing, going at 6:00 to a very pretty service at Union Church.

November 21st. Am greatly relieved this evening at having my articles all mailed. Went around to office of "Far Eastern Review" and also saw my friends, Dr. Skinner and Brewitt-Taylor again.

November 22nd. Called early to see Mr. T. R. Jernigan and was much disappointed to learn that he will not return from a hunting trip till next week. Had a most interesting call on Dr. T. Richard and Rev. W. Morgan of the Christian Literature Society.

November 23rd. Called to see Dr. John C. Ferguson of the Shanghai Times early and about 10:30 started out to see Rev. Dr. R. T. Bryan of the Union Baptist College. Heard two or three of his Chinese students in homiletics preach short sermons which he criticised. Rev. Mr.