A Trip Around the World, 1910-1911

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reading on train to Ko-pang-tzu, after which I finished my Progressive Farmer article on Manchuria and the rest of China, and the point where the great Wall runs to the sea. A tip-top meal--and I am beginning to appreciate such things when I find them over here.

October 26th.

Getting up early, at 7 o'clock, I left with a young Frenchman and a young German to go to the Great Wall, easily visible from any point of the city. It speaks well for any people that they had the daring and industry to conceive and execute so stupendous a task -- the greatest "building" on the face of the earth. Found a place of ascent and walked for some distance on top of the wall where I got several stones as paper-weight souvenirs, pulling one out of the ancient structure itself. Proceeded to Teintsin which I reached about 4 o'clock. Got a much-needed hair-cut and bought Thomas F. Millard's "America and the Far East."

October 27th.

Called early to see our American Consul, whom I found quite interesting. He showed me a place where a bombshell aimed at the American flagpole during the Boxer troubles exploded and split up some stones or bricks. Next called to see Dr. Robert Coltman, Manager of the Standard Oil Co., whom I found very interesting. He was Li Hung Chang's physician. Also called on a Chinese editor with whom I had to talk through an interpreter. Left Tientsin at 4:48 reaching Peking about 7:00. Glad to find some mail from home.

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October 28th. Wrote letters in the morning. In the afternoon took riksha and went with my young German friend, Mr. Bolter, to see Roman Catholic Cathedral, Agricultural Experiment Station, and the Peking Walls. The city is unspeakably dirty. Arranged with Bolter and the young Frechman, Mr. Cruse, both fine fellows, to go with them to Nankou tomorrow to see the Ming Tombs and Nankou Pass. Met a most interesting Portugese banker, evidently a man of distinction, Mr. P. Loureiro of Hong Kong. He was educated by Jesuit priests but doesn't think much of their organization. He introduced me to Sir Robert Breedon, a brother-in-law of Sir Robert Hart, and I understand, his possible successor. Saw several camels today.

October 29th. Got up early and after an hour's riksha ride took train for Nankou. After early tiffin we got three laughably little donkeys and two Chinese coolies and struck out for the Ming Tombs. After walking awhile we mounted our steeds and looked for all the world like clowns riding trick mules. Bolter and Cruse are fine fellows, full of humor, and we had a charming trip. Especially impressed by the odd animal monuments. Saw a good deal of Chinese farming, plowing, flailing, threshingfloors, farm houses, etc. Went to bed about 8:00 after preparing to start by donkeys for Nankou Pass at 5:15 tomorrow.

October 30th. Woke at 4:00 to find it raining, but we finally got started with donkeys, drivers and lanters at 5:45 walking in the dark for an hour before it became light enough to try the donkeys.

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Cruse fell off twice. We met many drives of horses and sheep and two camel trains, while the biggest caravan of all came through the gate while we were on the Wall. Immensely impressed by the ancient structures. Caught train and returned to Peking. Went on top of Cathedral for view of the city. Did some writing in evening.

October 31st.

Called to see Dr. Tenney of the American Legation and also had an hour or more with Minister Calhoun. Took tiffin with Mr. Cloud, formerly Consul at Mukden and now representing a group of American financiers. In afternoon called to see Dr. Anderson to the Imperial University and remained for dinner.

November 1st.

Mez invited me to go with the bunch of young Germans, so I went with them to see the Lama Temple, the Great Buddha, the temple of Confucius, the Hall of Classics and the Yellow Temple. The latter has a work of art in the beautifully covered monument hopelessly defaced by Japanese soldiers.

Tiffined with Mr. Cloud and dined with him and Geo. Bronson Rea, Editor of the Shanghai-Manilla Far Eastern Review? Rea was in Cuba when the "Maine" blew up and knows the whole story.

November 2nd.

After getting some photographs and doing some shopping, spent rest of morning with Mr. Joseph Ohl, correspondent of the New York Herald. Cruse left this afternoon, called home by the death of his sister. In afternoon had interview with Sir Robert Breedon and Capt. Reeves, the military attache of

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of the U.S. Legation. Dined at Dr. Anderson's with Mr. Cloud.

November 3rd.

Called to see Mr. Moore of the Associated Press, a Southerner and a fine fellow. At tiffin met Mr. Wearne, Reuter's agent, a veteran of the Beer War and a native of Australia.

Whipped my article into shape this evening.

November 4th.

Called to see Dr. Tenney of the American Legation who presented me with an 1897 copy of the Chinese Official Gazette, the oldest newspaper in the world. I also saw the Chinese manuscript copy of the Assembly's position to the throne for an early parliment. Tiffined with Cloud and Wearne.

This afternoon I was an onlooker at some historymaking, taking tea with Mr. Moore of the Assossiated Press when a messenger brought a summary of the Prince Regent's edict authorizing a Parliment within three years instead of seven years hence as originally planned. Later Mr. Moore took me to the Wai Wu Pu (Board of Foreign Affairs) where I met Dr. W. W. Yen, a chinaman educated at the University of Virginia.

November 5th.

Called early to see Dr. Lowry of the Methodist Mission, and failing to find him went to see the Y.M.C.A. where I met Mr. Gailey the Director.

The afternoon I spent with the Nestor of Chinese missionaries, Dr. W. A. P. Martin, now in his eighty-fourth

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year. After leaving him, called on one of the editors of the Peking Daily News where I was surprised to find my friend Chun who came over on the "Korea" with me.

November 6th.

Got up early and with two men to my rishka went nine miles to the Summer Palace which I found magnificent.

Called at the Y. M. C. A. again where I met Mr. Edwards and then went to the union church service and seemingly the first church service in the regularly constituted union church representing all denominations engaged in mission work in Peking.

November 7th.

Went early to Hotel Peking where I presented my letter of introduction from Ambassador Bryce to Dr. Timothy Richard, and Englisg Baptist of Shanghai and one of the most interesting men I have met in all China. He and I and Rev. W. Edward Soothill, President of the Shansi University, Taiyuanfu, talked for three hours.

In afternoon called at Wai Wu Pu and secured my ticket for the Tsucheng Yuan or National Assembly. This evening took Miss Ruth Tenney, daughter of Dr. C. D. Tenney of the American Legation to a musicale over at the Hotel. It seemed rather natural to be taking an American girl to such an occasion once more!

November 8th.

In morning called on Dr. Tenney who showed me a number of notable Chinese cartoons and some important secret political documents intented simply for my private information.