A Trip Around the World, 1910-1911

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Tatum, another Tar Heel, was at Tiffin with us. Saw different divisions of the school, the little Chinese boys and girls singing religious songs for me, some Chinese, one English. The English was excellently rendered and pronounciation surprisingly good. Went out on the farms awhile. Cotton ^here^ is sown in "lands" like wheat and cultivated but little. Stalks small and yields likewise. What surprised me greatly was the number of coffins lying all about in the fields, dead Chinamen in them! They would make excellent sentries for a Southern melon-patch. My Chinese tailor brought my new suit. It cost me $31 ($20 of it Peking bills liable to 5% discount) and would probably cost nearly that much gold at home.

November 24th. Spent the day rewriting my Manchurian article till 5:00 p. m. when I went to Union Church and heard a most delightful Thanksgiving address by Dr. Amos P. Wilder, the American Consul in Shanghai. It was a gem. The audience cheered his defense of Roosevelt--the only applause in the course of the address. Beautiful Thanksgiving music.

November 25th. My Manchurian article completed, I mailed it and my article on Industrial Japan to Raleigh for typewriting and I feel greatly relieved at having them off my hands at last. Next called on Dr. Wilder, American Consul, then on Harry De Gray and then on James A. Thomas of the British-American Tobacco Co. Then went out to Southern Baptist mission to tiffin with Rev. and Mrs. A. M. Provence. He then took me over the mission school and church, and out to the North Gate where the girls school is

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located. Also saw the old church which Rev. M. T. Yates built (chiefly with his own money) and of which he was pastor for many years. This evening dined with J. A. Thomas and his three guests, two ladies from New York and a Texan. Thomas is a rich find. He has a great fund of reminiscences covering the whole earth, and talks the only genuine North Carolina language I have heard since leaving home, including a picturesque disregard for certain statutes ordained by Lindley Murray. Enjoyed the evening immensely.

November 26th. This has been a tip-top day. Several letters written early. Next went to the International Cotton Mill where the manager, Mr. Currie, showed me all phases of the work. Then called on Dr. Ferguson and Dr. Wilder, and set out to see His Excellency, Wu Ting Fang. Found him at last in a handsome house in foreign style and had a most interesting hour's interview. At 5:00 o'clock tender left Shanghai wharf with me aboard, and about an hour later I boarded to Toyo Kisen Kaisha S. S. "Tenyo Maru" bound for Hong Kong.

November 27th. This being a pagan Japanese boat there were no religious services today (Sunday). My room-mate is a dandy Scotchman--Chas. E. Douglas, a civil engineer. Wrote, read and walked.

November 28th. Caught up with my delayed correspondence and did some reading. Wonderfully smooth sea. In sight of Chinese coast nearly all the time.

November 29th. Reached Hong Kong early, after breakfast. At Cook's office found

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my Confusian books from Mr. Kung awaiting me. Spent sometime getting my itinerary straight for a few weeks ahead and in late afternoon made the magnificent ascent to the top of "the Peak". The view just before sunset was about as pretty as anybody ever sees in this world. Miles and miles of fleecy clouds of which we saw only the silver lining. Below them the water of the harbors, thick dotted with ships, while here and there a peak emerged from above the cloud masses. At dinner ran up with my friend G. Baron Ash. Shortly after 9:00 I boarded my steamer for Canton.

November 30th. Woke up this morning to find our steamer anchored three hours from Canton instead of being at Canton wharfs as promised-- and a fog so dense that we could hardly see the water from the deck. The fog bell had troubled me during the night, but I didn't know we had stopped. It was sometime after breakfast before we could proceed and then but slowly until about 11 o'clock. At noon we reached Canton and I was met by my guide who rejoices in the name of Ah Cum John. Had five hours sight-seeing through Canton's narrow, ravine-like streets and didn't so much regret not having more. Visited Hall of 500 Genil, Chun ancestral Temple, five-storied Pagoda, etc., etc., and also saw silk spinning, jadestone grinding, weaving, carving, execution grounds (skulls in a barrel) fantan gambling, etc.

December 1st. Went to Cook's, arranged about my tickets, and then called to present my letter of introduction from Ambassador Bryce to

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His Excellency, General Lugard, Governor of Hong Kong. His private secretary received it for the Governor, who soon sent an invitation for luncheon tomorrow. I find that the Governor here is regarded as quite a little monarch--no more like the people at home regard the Governor than the democratic attitude of the United States toward its President is like the English attitude toward a king. The front seats in the Peak train are marked "Reserved for the Governor when wanted by him," certain houses advertise as "Surveyors to the Governor", and in society the Governor is the high muckamuck.

In afternoon did some writing and arranged photographs for my magazine articles.

December 2nd. Took 66 letters to advertisers to the Post Office to mail when I met Mr. Loureiro. He introduced me to some of the leading men there--Sir Hormusjee Mody, a wealthy Parsee, Hon. Murray Stewart, and the Italian Consul. The latter remarked that he had noticed my arrival in the papers together with the announcement that I was to lunch with the Governor.

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At the luncheon I met a Colonel Bayard who saw service in the Boer War, and the Governor's aide, Maj. Taylor, of the 33rd Lancers. Had a very interesting conversation with Sir Frederick about his military campaigns in South Africa.

December 3rd, 4th, 5th. Landed what was left of me at Manila, being somewhat consoled to find that the Sigismund, which left a few hours ahead of us, had about as bad a trip. The Captain stayed on the bridge all the way from Hong Kong here without sleep, it is said. In the afternoon while still feeling dazed, I took my letter of introduction around to Mr. Wm. Crozier, Editor of the "Far Eastern Review", who from that time on was at my service. Dined with him and Mrs. Crozier and had a delightful evening.

December 7th. Got up early and went into the Walled City to see the Manila Cathedral and one or two of the other Catholic churches. Then Mr. Crozier took me to the Educational Department where I met Mr. White and Mr. Magee, after which he (Mr. C.) took me on about half a day's automobile ride, showing me some typical Filipino villages, farming country, and natural scenery. Returning called on Hon. Chas. B. Elliott, Secretary of Commerce and Police, who talked most interestingly of conditions in the Islands.

December 8th. At 9:00 o'clock had an interview with Governor-General Forbes