A Trip Around the World, 1910-1911

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night met Dr. W. Rothenstein, an English artist working here.

In afternoon reached Lucknow which I found very beautiful -- surprisingly so. Went tonight to te Muhurram (Mohammedan) festival.

January 12th.

Early this morning visited the Residency where Wm. Ireland, a survivor of the Mutiny, acted as my guide. Very entertaining.

Afternoon spent a couple of hours in Cawnpore where I saw the memorial well, memorial chapel, etc.

Arrived late at night in Agra and caught a faint glimpse of the Taj in the distance.

January 13th.

Donned my new suit, which is very fine, as Pepys would say, and went out to see the Taj, the unrivalled gem it is reported to be, the Gem Mosque, the Pearl Mosque--which should in itsef make Agra famous--etc.

Called on Rev. Mr. McIntosh of the Baptist Mission and in the evening went with Judge Evans and an Englishman to see the Taj.

January 14th.

Spent the day writing an article for my paper, but at night saw the Taj Mahal, under an absolutely cloudless sky with the moon practically full. It is undeed a vision of lovliness so fascinating that it was with difficulty that I pulled myself away.

January 15th.

Called on Mr. McIntosh to read him my article for criticism. Went walking for about eight miles in the native quater which furnished a number of unique sights, including the marriage

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procession of a ten-year-old bridegroom.

Nearly killed Sheik Mogul with the walk. "If you Honors takes any more walking like that," he says, "I got dead!"

January 16th.

In the morning Rev. R. M. McIntosh drove me through the natives villages and to the beautiful tomb of I'tamud-ud-daulah, telling me much on the way of the life we saw. Saw a band of dusty pilgrims returning from Benares with their holy water.

In afternoon went with a small party to Fateh-pur Sikri, the now deserted fiat city of the great Akbar, and at night went with Mrs. Ames and an English lady to see the Taj Mahal in its supremest glory in the beautiful light of the Indian full moon. Got some flowers as keepsakes from the Tomb.

January 17th.

Left Agra in early morning for Muttra. Fortunate there in getting with Bishop McDowell of Chicago, on a visit to the Methodist Mission schools, etc. The party took me in charge as a guest of honor, and I had a most enjoyable day, seeing something of the old Biblical-looking city -- as well as the interesting work among the natives.

Reached Delhi about 9 p.m.

January 18th.

Sheik Mogul took me in charge, and we went through the Cashmere Gate into the fort, saw the museum (including the footprint of Mohammed in stone), the Mughal Palace, including the stately Hall of Public Audience and the magnificently splendid Hall of Private Audience and Private Apartments. Next visited the Jama Nosque, the largest in India. Saw hair from Mohammed's head, his sandal, and the Koran written by his son-in-law Ali

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and grandson Hasain.

In afternoon visisted ruins of Firszabad, the magnificent old fort at Indrapat and the interior ruins, the Huamayou Tomb, and the Nizam-ud-din Tombs.

At night called on Rev. Mr. Thomas of the English Baptist Mission.

Jan. 19th. Having expressed a desire to see life of a typical rural village Rev F. M. Wilson took me in tow, and we visited two or three whose names I don't remember and wound up with a prolonged stay at Khera Kalan.

Came back on Grand Trunk Road past ruined cities and strange travelers by camel and bullock cart. Saw some beautiful wild deer bounding gracefully across the fields.

January 20th. Bade farewell to my servant Mogul, who appeared to be sick and returned to Calcutta. Rather relieved to have none to look after now. At 10:00 o'clock started with Mr. Wilson to the Kutab Minar stopping on route to see the Observatory and the Tomb of Safdan Jang. Climbed to the top of the Kutab, and was greatly interested in the neighboring ruins. Had tiffin at the home of the native Methodist worker or minister, and later went with Mr. Wilson to an interesting mission service.

Returning we were invited to a Hindu wedding feast, which was an unexpected pleasure. Left 10:22 p. m. for Jeypore.

January 21st. Arrived at Jeypore in the afternoon. Very hot and dusty; the desert is not far away. Got matter together for my Progressive

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Farmer article, and late in the afternoon had an interesting ramble through the native quarters.

January 22nd. Wrote this morning. In afternoon went to see the Maharajah of Jeypore's palace, garden and stables. Also cisited the barking of a wild jackal at my door.

January 23rd. A great day! Set out early with the Ames and their English friend for Amber. Part of the way we went by carriage, but then mounted a great old Jumbo of an elephant, traveling on him for about at hour before reaching Amber, and about an hour coming back. Saw other elephants on the street. Amber was interesting; also the Hindu shrines I saw on route.

Left in the afternoon for Ahmedabad.

January 24th. Reached Ahnedahad about 1 p.m. The Country en route was very interesting, with monkeys thicker than rabbits in Chatham.

The principal mosque here with its forest of pillars, the elaborately carved Jain Temple,and especially the life on the streets, proved quite fascinating.

Left at 9:30 for Bombay.

January 25th. Arrived Bombay early in the morning and spend most of the day reverling in letters and papers from home, and answering them! Took a ramble through the city in the afternoon and bought some books.

January 26th. In the forenoon called on the AmericanConsul and got some

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Indian publications.

Later called on the editors of the Indian Textile Journal and went out with Judge Evans to see the Parsee "Towers of Silence", which I found rather gruesome in spite of the rare natural beauty of the location. After dinner went with Judge Evans for an interesting call on Rev. Powell Shaw, an English Methodist missionary.

January 27th

Visited the cotton market and afterward called on Editor Wallace of the Indian Textile World, getting from these two sources much interesting information about the cotton industry. About noon went to the Mohammedan Mosque where I found many worshippers, sitting on the floor and swaying as they went through their ritual. Afternoon went with Rev. J. Lampard to a mission meeting, and made a few remarks which he translated.

January 28th.

Called to see the American Consul, and afterward had an interesting talk with Mr. Rogers, Secretary of the Chamber of Commerce. In afternoon went with a party to the Cave of Elephanta which I found marvelously impressive as a stupendous work of antique sculpture. Left tonight for Madras. Millet, cotton, etc. largely grown; houses the most primitive I have seen. Read "Modern Hinduism".

January 30th.

Called to see the Vice-Consul at Madras. Later visited Mr. Ewing of the Y.M.C.A., then the Editor of the Hindoo. Having a letter of introdution to the Governor, Sir Arthur Lawler, sent it around and called in the afternoon, some interesting