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GOVERNOR-GENERAL'S TRAIN CANADA
Near Aklavik Aug : 1 : 37
My own precious one
A stray aeroplane last night brought your beloved letter - also Joan's [ST: Mrs Pope] (for which I was most grateful) - and one from Alice & Gran. We loved your telegram about my "tomfoolery". It is an awful business having a tame journalist on board who sends to the press our humble doings, and the best photographer in the U.S.A., who has already taken several hundred pictures!
We are approaching the Polar Sea in lovely weather. We have made a record for speed, but we left storms behind us which hung up the mail aeroplanes. I hope we get the same weather for our return journey. It has been a wonderful voyage, and I have really got to know something about the life of the North. I have had at each post levées of H.B. people, trappers Indians and Mounties. I am not satisfied with the quality
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of the Indian agents (whose appointments are largely political). The Catholic missions (the Oblates) are magnificent. The Anglican church makes a poor showing in comparison - little waifs of parsons with anaemic provincial wives! The Mounties are everywhere magnificent. I have seen wonderful scenery, for now we have the Mackenzie Mts for company. The mosquitos and flies have not been too bad, though we may find them worse at Aklavik. We are well ahead of our schedule, and, if the weather holds, should be at Edmonton before the 12th. I should like to spend 2 days at Great Bear Lake for the fishing.
Everywhere I am given gifts. I have a vast collection of Indian work, some of it very fine. Everywhere, too, there are demands for you, and I have had to promise to come again and bring
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Her Ex. We are a very pleasant ship's company. Maggie is a perpetual amusement, and really very nice. She has just departed in an aeroplane to be at Aklavik before us. There is a first-class Presbyterian minister for Edmonton, Dr George Macdonald, the first Canadian I have met who is passionately keen on the whole of Canada. Our H.B. companions, Col. Reid and Bonnycastle, are delightful, and out Mounty, Inspector Martin, is a jewel. Also Dr Wood is very interesting. I think that Ruth & Gordon are enjoying themselves greatly, and Shuldham is much less deaf.
I do hope you are well, my only one, & not being bored. I can't tell how much I