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heat, even those rude sort of houses have
their double windows [verily] built in
for the winter without any power of
opening a pane; + with a heated stove
they are very close + warm_. A
night of restlessness + sleeplessness.
4th Dull country clothed with
wood generally birch + pine; a grey
October They not helping to cheer the
otherwise dull scene. We made
a point of our coachman if possible
going 71 versts that we might get
better quarters in a town. We accor-
dingly reached the small town of
[[Majaisk]], where however we got still
worse accomodation than the night
before, - filthy, noisey, + close with
stove heat, in a room only partly
partitioned from the family apart-
ment, + opening into the public room
which was about as full of eaters sleeping
+ talkers as the floor would hold,
[[Moujiks]] + Priests, Mr. W had to share
it with them, a sad companionship
in noise + fleas.
5th We get to [[Gjatsk]] a small town
great part of which we found in ruins
from a fire which took place twelve months
ago. It afforded us however a clean +
comfortable room, which though cold
was delightful in comparison with the
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