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how cleverly it is then conveyed to any part of the head, neck, or arms.
The turban is taken off and laid aside while this washing is being
done, and the underclothing around the neck is opened. No buttons are
used in the Eastern dress, only strings, and when the washing is fin-
ished it is funny to see all of the various strings that keep the different
parts in position drawn tight and fastened.

After passing through the Dardanelles we reached a little before sunset
the town of Mitylene on the island of the same name. There was an
important passenger who was to leave the steamer then — no less a
personage than the local judge who had lately been appointed by
the Sultan. He was a dried up and wrinkled old man, dressed in
flowing robes, — the head of the household who were under the awning
on the cabin deck. My attention was not attracted to him until I saw
him getting into a barge which had come from the shore to receive his be-
longings, and which was already well filled with all his baggage tied
up in cloth bundles. He looked worried as he might well feel by the
necessity of collecting all his impedimenta without leaving anything
behind; but his women were still on the steamer waiting until it was time
for them to descend also. These consisted of two or three white ladies
and two tall black wenches who may have been servants, although they
did nothing to indicate that they were such. While these females were
standing near the deck railing, away from the jealous care of their lord
in the barge below, one of the passengers, a Frenchman, crept up softly
to one of the negresses and gave her a good pinch on some part of her
back. She immediately turned and uttered a shriek of anger, showing at
the same time a perfect row of white teeth. But the Frenchman, in no [wise?]
abashed, and enjoying the fun as well as the bystanders, gave her another
pinch, and the shriek and exhibition of the teeth was repeated. There was
no chance to give a third pinch as all the luggage was then on board and
sign was made that the females could descend; but for the time the inci-
dent was most ludicrous, and the poor old judge below was entirely un=
aware of the indignity to which his women were being exposed.

An entire day was spent at Smyrna and Hayes and myself went
on shore for about an hour. We wandered about in the narrow filthy
alleys and attempted to get towards some hills in the rear, but lost
our way, and then were fortunate in meeting a European who spoke
French and who gave us the direction of the harbor where our steamer
was at anchor. The remainder of our journey to Alexandria was
uneventful with the exception of our having passed in sight of the
island of Patmos where St John wrote the Revelations. The weather was
charming and the numerous points of land and islands, looking green
and pretty in the distance, with the blue water in which they were
reflected, made this short portion of my eastern trip one to be pleas-
antly remembered.

Upon nearing the African coast a low sandy shore gradually became
visible. The only trees that were in sight were a few date palms — gene-
rally in a group of from six to twelve. As we approached the entrance
to the harbor the masts of many ships could be seen and upon reaching
our anchoring ground we were in the midst of a large commercial
fleet; mainly English steamers, concerned in the overland route to