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April 3rd.

Well, we just finished a delicious breakfast here at the Krauters- ham and scrambled eggs and 3 varities [varieties] of cake- fruit cake, a sweet frosting cake and a pound cake which Bridges baked last night with Frau Krauter an interested observer. (Bridges is the other boy making the trip with George).

We have had a marvelous weekend here arriving Friday afternoon- a day earlier than we estimated a week ago. And now, after lunch, sure to be another big meal, we will go on up to the burg to unpack, wash clothes, and start sharing travel experiences. We have meetings and registration beginning tomorrow afternoon, classes Wednesday.

From Eberbach home, the trip was not particularly unusual. We pulled a fast one though. Instead of stopping Thursday night in Heilbronn, we went the 85 kilometers to Ludwigsburg in one day. The ride along the Neckar to Heilbronn was again beautiful- even in the rain. As we moved south the forests withdrew from the river's edge, the valley and lower slopes widened out and farms began to appear, all green and fresh in early spring. Above on the hilltops south of Eberbach were several castles much like those on the Rhine.

Just got back from a brief trip to the burg- many kids are just getting back and all have apparently had a wonderful time. One of the fellows on the Russian trip met Slavic (my Polish roommate last spring) at Warsaw for an evening and they had a great talk about old times at Stanford. The weather today is spectacular- springtime, warm and sunny, the blossoms just coming out, full of green and new life- a wonderful day to get back to the burg.

The country from Heilbronn to Ludwigsburg was much like that here in the Ramstal valley- rolling farmland- hard work on a bike. But we took it easy and walked up the long or steep hills and rode down. Friday morning we spent in Ludswigburg visiting two or three palace-castles there. Huse 460 room sprawling affair is one; the other only a small palace (actually a hunting lodge) about a block square. Around it are acres of wonderful woodland, now a nature preserve with paths to stroll on where we saw several deer and waterfowl. It was a pleasant stroll, much more fun than seeing the wastefully luxurious palaces. I don't like many secular, baroque buildings though some of the churches are beautiful.

Then from Ludwigsburg we rode easily the 20 kilometers to Beuttelsbach, arriving at 1PM and really glad to be back in the friendly, familiar grounds. We came straight to the Krauters and were immediately invited to stay here for the two nights before the burg opened. After a short trip up the hill to get our stacks of mail, we spent the evening talking about the trip etc. Yesterday morning I got a haircut and then spent a couple of hours cleaning and repairing the bike. After lunch while the Krauters were in the woods hauling some firewood, I spent the afternoon mounting about 100 pictures from the Black Forest and the first 2/3's of our bike trip. It is a long job for so many and I am glad to have it done before classes start. Also it was a quiet restful afternoon with Tschaikowsky music in the background on the radio and that was fine with me.

I am really eager to get back though and get going on the new quarter. I have met Professor Tarshers already a fineman about 45-50 with a darling 4 year old daughter and a European wife. He studied and taught at

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Cambridge before going on to Stanford- Economics seminar is my class from him.

April 4th

In talking with the other kids I find that, between us, we really covered the continent except perhaps Scandinavia where it is too cold. The most interesting trip in the long run will probably be the group of 14 that went to Russia. They had a really fascinating, sovering view of the zealous work of the people to build a new Utopia. and of the loss of freedom and individual creativity and welfare that accompanies this eager submission to the glory of the materialistic state.

As I think back over our own trip, I don’t discover any such tremendous intellectual experiences- our was more an eclectic assembly of several bebefits to lesser degree. We saw a tremendous amount of scenery and much more interesting countryside from our bicycles- much more thoroughly than you could from train or car-forming impressions that should last much longer. We also saw several large cities: Amsterdam, Cologne, Heidelberg and many many more of the small villages than the auto traveler ever does. We saw some excellent paintings and a variety of architecture from medieval fortresses to the Cologne cathedral to modern Rotterdam. We spoke with a few people at length, though fewer than those on the burg who hitch-hiked. mostly hostel fathers and got much good practice for our German. We biked about 800 kilometers- 500 miles- averaging about 60 a day and took the train for about 1300 more. We spent about $56.pp apiece, including about #24.00 for train ticket which is really cheap living for three weeks in two countries as well as we ate. And, not least important, we spent most of our time in the healthy outofdoors- built new leg muscles and got suntanned and windtoughened faces, and feel good and healthy. And we can tell our children that we once took a bike trip around Europe, so all in all it was a pretty worthwhile I think.

You might be interested in the general outline of this quarter. Classes are:

World Literature of Renaissance and Reclamation period- Dr. Whittaker International Economics – Advance seminar because I have already taken Econ 1 – Dr. Tarshus. German.

The main trips and dates:

April 14-18- Easter in Paris. April 26-May 2nd- Berlin- group trip May 16-19 (not definite) Group trip to Luxembourg to study European economic community of coal and steel, problems of European integration. June 3-7 Five days in Vienna June 8th and 9th- finals June 10- Finish papers and pack and Goodbye party June 11th- See you at the Airport!!!!!!!

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May 20, 1960

Hello folks,

Goodness- George has been to Berlin and returned and even taken another excursion- and here I am, late again. Perhaps by now you are used to this routine. At any rate, as I wrote to him only last night, he just got to see Berlin in time with that Mr. K acting up. And frankly, I shall be very happy to greet him on June 11th in San Francisco. Somehow we will prefer to have him on this side of the "pond" and he seems to be counting the days too.

April 28th, 1960

I have a few minutes before going to the Berlin Philharmonic so will start a letter to you.

We have spent both morning and afternoon in seeing the refugee situation. We began this morning at the main reception center here in west Berlin, where the refugees come first of all after crossing the border into east Berlin and then crossing again into west Berlin.

First of all we had a very informative lecture from the director of the center, himself a refugee in 1951. Some statistics he gave were well worth repeating: Since world war 2 there have been 3.4 million refugees from east Germany, not counting those from other lands such as Latvia, Czechoslovakia, Hungary, Poland, etc. Germany has a present popultaion of about 54 million; of these, 13 million are refugees from somewhere behind the iron curtain- i.e. 25% of the whole population! That is a lot of people to absorb especially when three foirths had another language, customs etc, and of, course, none of them could bring more than a suitcase or so with them, many of them not even that much, so it was also quite an economic problem and still is.

Even more interesting are the more current figures: for example, the monthly refugee flow so far this year: January 5,300; Feb. 5,900; March, 8,000; April to the 26th, 14,000. One reason for the rise since Feb. is that the Communists have put on a big push to collectivize the farms and also the handworkers etc who remain self-employed. This has, as the numbers show, driven thousands of farmers to make the very dangerous trip to Berlin to escape to the west, where they must now face the difficulty and hardship and uncertainty of starting life from scratch. The no. of farmers jumped from 200 in Jan. to 2,400 in the first three weeks of April, after the new laws came in. The phychological importance of west Berlin as an escape valve for refugees from Communism cannot be exaggerated!

After the background speech we split up into groups of ten to sit in on the actual interviews given to all new refugees. These people must show good reason for having left the Communist country in order to be granted refugee status in west Germany (this preventing infiltration and also preventing the complete flooding of west Germany with refugees to house, clothe, and feed) and hence they are questioned by a committee of three former refugees to verify these reasons. We got to listen to four cases, were permitted to ask questions when we didn't understand something- this was, I thin, the most informative experience of the day, giving a unique insight into how Communism goes about its slow but relentless job of taking over the lives of the common people in service of the state.

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-2-

The first case was a man and his grown daughter; the family had been operating a private laundry business in the suburbs of east Berlin. A couple of years ago, in order to put greater economic pressure on such private businesses (force them to form larger "people's factories") the State passed a law that a factory would now be any business employing more that 3 people (previously the number had been 11). Thus, the family had to begin paying factory as well as personal taxes; over the years these taxes were raised to even more pressing levels. Also thare are laws restrictig the amount other people can pay such private businesses (i.e. price controls to eliminate friendly assistance from neighbors and to make profits impossible) and also restricting where their goods can be sold. Such economic pressures as this were eventually supplemented by direct threats that the business would be closed and the people forced to work in the "people's factories". At this point the family fled as refugees.

The second man was a lawyer, had been working as a tax adviser in a town in east Germany. The State had, over the years, been collectivising farm and hand workers in his community, thus eliminating his clientele (who must then deal with the State's tax advisors). As a more imminent personal distress, one of the sons (there were 2 sons and a wife who had fled with him) had been detected writing unfavorable comments in private letters to a friend in the western zone. When this was somehow discovered he was brought up for punishment, given an alternative of joining the Secret Police and spying on his schoolmates (really this is no fictional horror story- it happened!!!) With the threats on his son and the pressure on the father to become a State lawyer (which means joining the party too), the family fled to west Berlin, will go on to Stuttgart where the man has a job arranged through friends.

The third and fourth cases were both farmers fleeing in face of the pressure to give up their private farms and join the Collective farms as I already mentioned. Here we observed, the stress has been more openly political. They (the party organization) call meetings in each town, request that the farmers voluntarily sign up for the party and collectiveization (thus they can say in propaganda that it was "voluntary" and had the peoples' support); Those who don't sign are then pressured to sign ("voluntarily", mind you) by city officials, visits from party people, even loud speakers going through the streets screaming the man's name as a "friend of Adenauer". If the "Voluntary" appeal doesn't work, the man is, I think, then required to join anyway, and of course his stalling makes him the less popular in the government's eyes. As one wide note on the dangers involved in a refugee's flight to the west, one of these farmers came by train with his wife. He and his son (with the son's wife and two young children) had arranged to leave at the same time and travel separately (for greater safety in smaller numbers). They were to meet in Berlin. But there is so far no sign of the son and grandchildren. They were either delayed or picked up by the Police. It is illegal to flee, try to flee, or even to know of someones feelings without reporting it to the police! As I realized the torment this couple must be suffering, not knowing their son's fate, the personal brutality of the Totalitarian system really hit me, and I felt literally almost like crying in sympathy.

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-3-

Thursday afternoon we went to a refugee camp to observe the living conditions of some of the really unfortunate ones- those who cannot work (as injured veterans, or old people) or cannot find work, and those not granted full refuge status in the hearing (who must therefore just remain in such camps indefinitely). They live in dreary old barracks, converted to this use from old munitions warehouses etc. They usually have very little income, have little hope, and the life is pretty depressing- small two room apartments with beds and furniture crowded (and I mean crammed) into the tiny space- often families of six or more in this small space. This is just one more hazard of becoming a refugee. The situation has to be pretty unbearable in the east zone for people to risk such a future.

On Friday morning we were free to do as we wished. So I went into east Berlin to walk around. Went to several book stores but had no luck in buying anything yet. There are controls on spending the east German currency and I am still looking for a store that will overlook these. It is easy to buy propaganda material or history, or art of the Communist countries, but as for general books on art etc it is much harder. Then we went for a couple of hours to an exhibit in an east Berlin museumpart on "Fifteen Years of Freedom in Hungary" and part on the history of "The fight of the German communist Party against Nazism and Imperialism". Very artfully, displayed, large blown-up photograhs etc with, of course, some propaganda slant on the historical events. It is fascinating here in Berlin to see and hear the competing propaganda efforts of both east and west. Lots of important issues have been sharpened or clarified in such an atmosphere, though I think if you stayed here too long you would gradually be shifted over to a hard pro-western line- most of the officials (even American) we have heard have done so.

Yesterday afternoon we had a rather ordinary reception by an official of the west German gov't- coffee, speeches, etc. Then last night a social gathering with the students of the free university of Berlin- lots of talk, movies etc.

May 1, 1960

Well today was May day in Berlin! So long awaited both by us visitors from Stanford and by the people of east and west Berlin.

We began by taking a train ( an intercity rapid system. There are two, one underground and with more stops and one above with fewer stops, thus faster) to the Marx-Engels Platz in the east sector, the site of their huge parade-rally. We arrived just at the 9 AM starting time and couldn't get within a couple of blocks of the square because of the number of people and some blocked off streets. The initial feeling when we got off the train was that of a big football game or parade- huge crowds, band music in the distamce, various groups forming to march, a sense of excitement and carnival like activity in the air. In each of the many sidestreets leading toward the square were a block or two of groups preparing to march in the parade- this accounted for about 3/4's of the people since almost everyone was mrching in almost some group or other. (If not regimented, East Berlin is certainly well organized!) The first part of the parade was the actual military part- marching units of soldiers and sailors carrying tommy guns or rifles, and even doing the goose step. After the armies came the weapons, tanks, big cannon, anti-aircraft, troop carrier trucks etc. Unfortunately

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