Diary: Isabel R. Farquhar, 1896.

A Summer Cruise

In

Winter Lands.

June 27, 1896

Found Henry's brother and sister in law and nephews waiting for us on the steamer, in a few minutes [H.F.] and [E.A. and F.F.] left to go over [to] "St. Paul" laying at the next dock; reported it so fine that H. said he was glad I did not go. Promptly at a quarter before eleven the gang-plank was withdrawn, and we were off, 129 passengers, some for Southampton only, but probably most of us for the North Cape. As soon as we were fairly off letters were distributed, and I got six, two of them a great surprise. Afterward, on going to my state-room I found a box of sweet peas and mignonette, sent to me from my own home by one of the ladies staying there while we are away.

We have very good places at the table. There are two foreign traveled ladies opposite us, whose names we do not yet know, who are only going to Southampton. We succeeded at a quarter to three in finally securing our steamer chairs, up to which time we had been standing and walking about; it was rather fatiguing, but we found plenty of occupation watching the fading shore, and after it was lost, the sea and sky. The day has been beautiful, and it is difficult to imagine how a sea could be smoother, so that we are postponing the much dreaded sea-sickness. The sunset was superb, finer by far than a sunset away from the sea could be, for the reflections on the water were almost as interesting as the colors in the sky.

We have scarcely spoken to any one yet, except at table, and I have spent perhaps ten minutes in reading; all the rest of the time I have simply gazed at the sea, and H. has done almost as much resting and looking at the sea as I.

June 28th. Sunday.

Sea nearly smooth all day long, yet in spite of it there are many

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passengers more or less sick. So far H. and I have been well. This morning, before I was on deck, the ship passed through a large school of dolphins. Was very sorry not to see them, but H. saw them. Afterwards we saw two very near us. Something--the lack of responsibility perhaps--has made me very sleepy, and most of my day has been spent in my chair asleep. About noon, and only after repeated nagging on my part, I at last succeeded in having my steamer trunk brought up from the hold and put in my room. Most of the well passengers assembled at half past ten in the saloon, where the Episcopal service was read by a clergyman among the passengers. Sea very smooth all day long.

JUNE 29.

Nothing exciting to-day; sea a little rough, and about half the passengers are sick. One of the Swedish ladies at our table is. They talk a great deal to each other in their own tongue. They interest me a good deal. We are at the purser's table; nobody on my left, H. on my right, and the Swedish ladies opposite. Nobody else at table near enough to talk to. I slept in my chair a large part of the day. There is a dear little ministering angel on board, who helps so efficiently all the poor sick people. She is Miss Parker, from Richmond, and I am delighted to find that she, her mother and brother are going all the way. I wonder what sister would say, if she knew that I have not yet found anybody to hate. The fact is, there seems to be an unusually cultivated and pleasant set of people on board.

JUNE 30.

Weather rather bad, a very little foggy, very windy, and a little rough. Most of the sick people are still sick. Poor Miss Proctor, who is all alone, has been quite ill, but is better this evening; she says she does not know what she would have done without our

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dear little angel of mercy. We have been having our chairs on the upper deck, on the port side, but the cinders were so bad that we moved over to the starboard side; but there the best places were all taken, and the noise of the machinery, and the odors of the cooking were very annoying. Sky grey all day. Toward evening a freight ship met us, on the other side, so we did not see it. In the evening there was music and dancing in the Social Hall. There are many young people on board, and I believe we are going to have very good times. Poor H. hurt his tooth on a hard cracker, and has not been very happy to-day.

JULY 1.

We awoke to find it raining hard. My first thought was of this day last year, and my heart yearned towards the dear ones at home, who were thinking of it too, I know. It stopped raining before breakfast, and the whole day since has been most glorious. Most of the invalids are getting better. This morning Mrs. Fetter and I took poor Miss Cohen,(who has been so very ill that she has looked positively green,)between us, and walked her up and down the deck for a few minutes, till she said she had had enough. Sea as smooth all day long as though it had been "rolled with a lawn-mower and a roller," as Capt. Boggs said this morning. We took our chairs down to the lower deck forward this afternoon, and in consequence have seen a great deal of the Hornadays, who are delightful people. H. is delighted with Mr. Forbush also, whom we met through the Hornadays.

JULY 2.---A Day of unbroken sunshine and very smooth seas, but the weather is still just as warm as it has been. Until evening shirt waists and no wraps at all would be most comfortable, and a few ladies have them, but most of us have only winter dresses. It is great fun to guess about the run, and some excitement when it is posted. To-day's.

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run has been our best--339 I think, but am too indolent to verify it. We have one poor little consumptive on board, who enlists everybody's sympathies. We have many charming people on board, and by this time I have spoken to almost everybody, though I don't know all their names. Saw a ship, but I think nothing else. In the evening went up to the top-gallant forecastle, to see the sunset, which was disappointing. It made me "giddy," and I hope I shall not have to go up again.

JULY 3.---The excitement in the air to-day is the getting up of a programme to celebrate the "Fourth." It looks an entertaining one enough. We have had a "choppy sea" all day, owing, I suppose, to the direction of the wind, and the boat has been rolling dreadfully all day so that we have not been able to take our usual walks. It causes much amusement at table, where, in spite of the four guards all the length of the table, the dishes dance first on one side and then on the other, and occasionally something has to be rescued. H. and I tried to walk arm-in-arm, but had to give it up after a few turns. Saw a schooner to-day, which we overtook and passed. It was a pretty sight, but I could not help but think how much more it was to them than to us.

JULY 4.---A beautiful, beautiful day. The put up the flag-signals from deck to mast head at the stern, and the American flag at the bow. All the camera fiends, myself included, went up to the forecastle and "snapped" at the flags. In the afternoon the sailors played some games for our amusement on the saloon deck, forward. First, they put their feet into a bag which was tied around their waists, and ran a race. Prizes of money were given to the winners. Then they ran a three-legged race, then a wheel-barrow race, one man walking or running on his hands, with his feet held in the air by the man behind him. Then