Walter Deane papers

92

A Trip to Pigeon Cove, Rockport, &c, Mass. 1901 Aug. 21

The morning opened cloudy, but it soon cleared and the day was as bright, clear and comfortable as could be.

Rev. Mr. & Mrs. James A. Kelso left this morning for Alleghany, {Allegheny} Pa. their home. We have enjoyed them very much and shall miss them.

We took the 11.44 train for Rockport, bent on a pleasure trip to visit seaside places about Gloucester. The ride between Gloucester & Rockport was through a country literally hidden under granite boulders and ledges. We passed very extensive and deep quarries of granite as we neared Rockport. Rockport granite is known far and wide. The Boston Post Office is made entirely of it. At Rockport we took the electrics and rode through Pigeon Cove. We met Mrs. Lamb of Cambridge on the car. She is staying in Pigeon Cove. She pointed out to us the old Babson House. We had beautiful views of Sandy Bay and the wide ocean. We left the car at the end of the line some little way beyond Pigeon Cove and walked out to Halibut Point. Near here we visited a large granite quarry and I talked with one of the workmen. The work was started five years ago and yet a vast hole had been made. The view sea ward from here was grand. The distant western shore toward Newburyport and north ward was plainly visible. From here we walked east through a foot path in a field, passing a very old farm house with

93

A Trip to Pigeon Cove, Rockport, &c, Mass. 1901 Aug. 21 (2)

gambrel roof and unpainted. It is of great age. Then we moved on through the field and along a wood path through a wood and emerged on to a beautiful road in Ocean View. We continued straight to the water and found the Linwood Hotel, a tiny house on the edge of the cliffs commanding a supberb view. From the northwest & southwest is an unbroken line of ocean. The comes Straitsmouth Isl {Island} with its white Light House and beyond the tall dark-colored Thatcher Island Lights. Rockport and the adjoining shore is south. After eating a good dinner here we walked along the shore back to Pigeon Cove where we conversed with a man who had a little store right on the Cove. He gave us some interesting information. The point of land that made the Cove was so overrun by the winter storms that vessels could not winter there safely. To remedy this they have built on this tongue an enormous granite wall of great height. I should say at least 30 or 40 feet above the water. Even now I was told that the waves have dashed over this dislodging some of the granite blocks that are piled up on the top. We were also shown where the Government are building an enormous breakwater from Pigeon Cove eastward a long distance as a protection to Sandy Bay the harbor of Rockport. The work has progressed but partially but I could see where in spots the granite appeared above the water.

94

A Trip to Pigeon Cove, Rockport, &c, Mass. 1901 Aug. 21 (3)

Boarding the electric car again we rode through Rockport and straight down to Gloucester (3.30 P.M.). We had a good view of Bass Rocks with the hotels crowning the hill.

In Gloucester center we changed cars and took one for Lanesville. A lady whom I sat next to, a Mrs. Dakins of Linnean St., Cambridge, gave me information along part of the way. We passed through Riverdale with interesting views of the water to the west and some sand dunes beyond. Across the bay lay Annisquam through which we passed on the east side of Lobster Cove. The point where the summer residences are lies across the Cove. Mrs. Dakins who left us at the bridge pointed out Prof. Hyatt's house on the west bank of the Cove. Continuing we passed through Bay View another settlement, a granite center. On the hill to the west and overlooking the sea stands the house of B.F. Butler. We had a good view of it. Granite walls are in front of many of the small houses instead of a wooden fence. This shows that granite is cheap here, as slate is in Salem, N.Y. There every house and shed is slated. Next we passed through Lanesville and reached the end of the line, but a mile from the terminus at Pigeon Cove. Without leaving the car we returned to Gloucester reaching the station at 5 P.M. The 5.06 train took us back to Magnolia, and we reach home by quarter of six. The brilliancey of sea & sky could not be surpassed to-day.

95 A Trip to Bass Rocks & East Gloucester, Mass. 1901 Aug. 22

Fog in early morning, clearing by 8 A.M. Day clear and pleasant, rather warm in the sun.

We took the 9.16 A.M. train Gloucester to visit friends and see the country. The electrics first took us to Long Beach between Gloucester & Rockport. We staid but a few minutes here. It is a very fine stretch of fine hard sandy beach and is a resort much like Revere Beach at home. The car next left us returning from this point, at the port of Bass Rocks. We walked up the slope and among the group of houses forming this place. The two hotels are the Thorwald and the Moorland, at the latter of which we saw Miss Susie & Mollie Wyman. It is a very attractive place here, with a fine outlook sea ward. The shore runs along to the north east, and Thatcher Island with its two fine lights are directly before you. As I sat on the piazza a United States torpedo boat, long, black, low on the water, with four short black smoke stacks ran past round Eastern Point at full speed. I was told she was on a trial trip.

At 12 o'clock Miss Mollie walked with us across the field and over the Golf Links about 3/4 mile where we took the car to East Gloucester. There we dined at the Delphine (100 at table) and called on Mrs. & Miss Dora Willard who are staying there, on Will & Mrs. Dan's and Mrs. Morgan, at the Hawthorne Inn, Prof. & Mrs. Clement-Smith in their neighboring cottage, and Miss Peabody of Appleton St. in her cottage near by. Mr. Arthur Gilman showed me about Hawthorne Inn, a large group of bulidings close to the water, opp. 10 lb. {Pound} Isl. {Island}, and crowded with people. The 5.06 P.M. train took us back to Magnolia.

96 Magnolia, Mass. 1901 Aug. 23

Heavy fog this A.M. clearing mostly by 10 o'clock, clear sky P.M> & evening, south easterly breeze. Rather warm.

[Mixed flock of 12 sps. {species} of birds.] This morning I walked over alone to Rafe's Chasm. Before entering the patch of woods and crossing the small valley near the end of the walk I paused for some time on the edge of the woods in a pretty grassy spot by the path, where I found myself in the midst of one of those mixed flocks of small birds that are wandering about now feeding here and there. I noted the following birds. Downy Wood pecker-, 1, Hairy Woodpecker, 1 rapping hard & feeding on dead pine, Wood pewee, 1*, Chebec, 1, Oriole, 1, Goldfinch 1✓, Chewink, 4 scratching & calling, Black & White Creeper, 2, chasing each other, Blk throated Green Warbler 1♂ ad. of in., Redstart 1*, Warbler 2, actively feeding among Pitch Pines, under parts very light { probably Yellow-Palm Warbler, Jan. 13, 1924]. no streaks seen, light wing bars, head rich brow, yellow line over the eye and a little below the eye, upper parts dark, tail forked, Chickadee, 12, rollcking about, singing and uttering the Phoebe note.

In the open woods of scattered Pitch Pines and low scrubby oaks on the plateau near the chasm, Sericocarpus conyzoides & Helianthus divaricatus are very abundant indeed. I saw one large patch of Sanicula marylandica in dead ripe fruit. I caught one Swallowtail ( ). This is abundant all through this region. I saw many specimens at the Old Fort in Marblehead.

M. lunched at Mrs. Sampson's at 1.30 P.M.

This P.M. I wrote and read. At 5 o'clock we walked to the Point and enjoyed the high tide on the rocks. Mr. & Mrs. Moses White & Watson came here yesterday for a week or two.

97

Magnolia, Mass. 1901 Aug. 24

Clear in A.M., cloudy in P.M., light rain at 7.30 P.M. thunder later in the evening. Breeze off the sea, quite warm in the sun in the midday.

This morning we & Mrs. White walked over to Norman's Woe. M. & Mrs. W. sat on the rocks. I wandered about over the rocks and barren soil in the neighborhood. Of Butterflies I saw Cybele, rapae, (took two), pseudocolus subsp. {subspecies} (took two), (took one). Helianthus divaricatus is the most abundant plant there and it gives a bright yellow color to the point. This sunflower seems to be very local even in the region where it is abundant. I have seen it nowhere else in my walks about here. It is still in full flower. Sericocarpus conyzoides very abundant too is going by now. I took a few plants for my herbarium: — Prenanthes serpentaria, Pursh. abundant Sanicula marilandica, L. saw two patches. Lespedeza stuevei {var.} intermedia, Watson, one patch of a dozen plants Lechea saw one plant only, Sericocarpus conyzoides, Nees. abundant.

This afternoon we walked over to Miss Alice Allyn's and spent a pleasant hour or so on the piazza. A number of her lady friends were there and tea & cakes were served. The house is very high on the hill, surrounded by trees and a vista opening towards the beach has been made by cutting down a great many trees. More still must go to keep the view open. We called afterwards on Mr. John Allyn's whose house is just below the former.

99

Magnolia, Mass. 1901 Aug. 26

Light rain at 8-9 A.M., light clouds rest of A.M. Bright sunny P.M. glorious evening, noon. Air comfortable, not over warm —

We strolled along the road behind the beach this A.M. and I examinded the growth between the road and the beach, opposite the entrance to the Blynman Hotel. The soil is sand. The weeds were rank. Erechtites, Ambrosia ar. , Scutellaria gal., Teucrium can., Xanthium S. can., Coelopleurum, Ligusticum, Clethra &c are abundant. I collected a few specimens of : — Coelopleurum gmelinii actaeifolium, Coulter & Rose. Lygusticum {Ligusticum} scoticum L. Ambrosia artemisiaefolia {artemisiifolia}, L. minus ♂ flowers. I found a single plant in the sand. It formed a clump about a foot across to 8 or 10 in. high. I trimmed it in preparing it, it was so thick. Xanthium s. canadense, showing ♂ flowers.

On the way home we stopped at Mrs. Gills' and saw the ladies. Mrs. McLean was much interested in my plants.

This afternoon we walked over and called on Mrs. Sampson & Mrs. Thayer. I met a Mrs. Monks there. She was a Miss Page and used to call at St. Marks to see her when I was there.

Mary & George Deane came this evening on the 4.30 train from Boston to stay a few days. After dinner we walked to the point and enjoyed the beautiful moon over the water. We sat on the piazza of the Magnolia House some time.

100

Magnolia, Mass. 1901 Aug. 27

Clear, hot day, wind N.W. in A.M., S.W. in P.M.

This morning Mary, George, M. & I walked over to Norman's Woe and spent the morning sitting on the rocks and talking. We saw a large, new hull of a vessell being towed round Eastern Point up into the Harbor. The vessel was covered with people. We visited the chasm and sat there for a while. Home to lunch. The P.M. after sitting in the piazza for a long time, George & I strolled round the point and sat on the rocks at the fort of Lexington Ave. The sea was almost motionless and vessels were lying still in every direction. We met Mrs. Tilton of Highland St. and she said that Minot's Light cannot be seen at night from the rocks where we were, but is perfectly visible from their piazza at the Aborn cottage. I shall try to get there before we retunr this week.

Helianthus divaricatus, L. Collected near Norman's Woe where it is very abundant.

101

Trip to Rockport, Pigeon Cove & E. Gloucester, Mass. 1901 Aug. 28

Clear, glorious day, light breeze, easterly, warm in the sun in the middle of the day —

Mary, George, & I made an excursion to-day. We took the barge at 9.30 A.M. to Gloucester over a beautiful road through woods of oak, pine, beech &c., with glimpses of the harbor. At Gloucester we took the electrics through Rockport, Pigeon Cove to the end of the line. Then we visited the granite quarry as M. & I did on the 21st and saw the men at work drilling. In one place a steam drill was at work, making a hole 14 1/2 fee deep. We took the car back at 12 M. I enjoyed this ride very much as I could see again with greater appreciation what I saw before. I was even more impressed by the immense granite wall at Pigeon Cove sheltering the Cove, the huge stone quarries and the many ocean & inland views. At Glouchester we transferred and went to Hawthorne Inn where we had an excellent lunch. We met a number of friends. George & I took a walk of an hour with Lawrence Clement-Smith and Will Davis' little boy to see birds. We walked along the beach just beyond the Inn and then crossed over to the eastern side of the point to a beach, where we saw a flock of ten Sanderlings. Eave Swallows were abundant over the harbor and I saw one Tree Swallow. Returning to the city we took the barge back home at 5 P.M. reaching the home for dinner. Very successful trip.

George & I walked to the Aborn Cottage this evening but could not see Minot's Light. We visited the Ocean Side.

102

Magnolia, Mass. 1901 Aug. 29

Clear, bright day, warm in the sun, breeze about south, evening brilliant, cool, moon full, Venus, Jupiter, Saturn visible —

This morning Mary, George & M. went over to call on the Allyns. I walked over to Norman's Woe with Mr. White & Watson, and we examined carefully all the land belonging to the Merrill Estate, with the plan the Mr. White had with him. The property includes Rafe's Chasm and a few acres to the west and runs east round the point to not far from Dr. Heard's place. Returning we all (Mr. W., Watson, George & I) went down to the beach. I watched the bathers and waited till the party had bathed.

This afternoon Mary & George returned to Cambridge by the 2.53 train and M. & I devoted some time to packing for we go home to-morrow morning.

Lechea intermedia, Leggett. I found this very abundant among the rocks by Norman's Woe.