Sketch of a journey through the western states of North America, 1827

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xxii JOURNAL FROM

tivated lands, with neat little towns and villages ; but the greater part lay throught a new country of dense forest, where the axe had scarcely cleared a sufficient passage for the coach. At one place, where we were to spend the night, the establishment was only three weeks old ; in that time, the family, who had come some distance, had erected three log-houses, and placed their furniture and effects therein ; yet, our entertainment was by no means bad. The poor hostess, who never had so muh company under her roof, did all in her power to make us comfortable ; and our party, which consisted of eight persons, three of whom were ladies, were in perfect good humour, notwithstanding their new situation. When we arrived at the latter end of our journey, we saw some fine lands destitute of woods, but interspersed with small clumps, resembling those in some of the parks of our nobility ; they were the reserved possessions of the Indians, when they sold the adjoining country to the commissioners of the United States. We wished to have entered some of their houses, which were well built, with sash windows and shingle roofs, but were told, that in general they avoided receiving the visits of white strangers. Many of them were wealthy, as appeared from their fine cultivated fields, and large herds of cattle and horses. Near one village, we met a young Indian driving a handsome waggon, drawn by four remarkably fine oxen, which would have done credit to any English gentleman ; the youth was well dressed, and passed our carriage with a look that sufficiently marked his consequence. In the course of the day we saw near the road several wild turkeys, whose splendid plumage, glittering in the sun, far excelled in appearance those of the domestic ones. We also conversed with several Indians, some of whom were on horseback, armed with rifles ; they were civil, and seemed pleased at the notice we took of them. A squaw, with her son behind her, accompained us some miles. Her dress was a loose blue cloth coat, with scarlet pantaloons, black beaver hat and feathers, and her face was painted bright red. We arrived at Sandusky in the evening, and found a steam-boat just starting for Buffalo ; but being told another would arrive, during the night, we preferred waiting for it, and were disappointed, as it passed by, without entering the harbour ; and as no other was expected for some days, we took our passage on the following evening, in a sailing schooner, which brought us in three days to Buffalo, a distance we should have performed in

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