Sketch of a journey through the western states of North America, 1827

NEW ORLEANS TO NEW YORK xi

sengers obliging and friendly. Manners are not so distant or stately as at the North ; and it is much easier to become acquainted with your fellow passengers. A trip up the Mississippi at the proper season of the year is delightful."

The vicinity of New Orleans is not interesting, and the roads and drives but few, owing to the swamp in which it is placed. We went in a carriage to lake Ponchartrain, about three miles distant, where we procured a few interesting fresh-water shells ; but, in general, the subjects of natural history, which I had lately seen, had not much novelty to recommend them.

I must not omit stating, that, in one of my rambles, in a small street, near the steam-boat landing, I saw on a sign, in large letters, "Big Bone Museum." This excited my curiosity, and I expected to see mammoth-bones, as the banks, past which the water of this river rolls, had produced a great number of those surprising remains. I therefore entered, and was indeed astonished at the sight, not of the remains of a mammoth, but what are believed to be those of a stupendous crocodile, and which, indeed, are likely to prove so, intimating the former existence of a lizard, at least 150 feet long ; for I measured the right side of the under jaw, which I found to be 21 feet along the curve, and 4 feet 6 inches wide ; the others consisted of numerous vertebrae, ribs, femoral bones, and toes, all corresponding in size to the jaw ; there were also some teeth, these, however, were not of proportionate magnitude ; but the person who found them (W. S. Schofield), assured me that he had also discovered another tooth, similar to the rest, but considerably larger, which had been clandestinely taken from his exhibition-room. These remains were discovered, a short time since, in the swamp near Fort Philip, and the other parts of the mighty skeleton, are, it is said, in the same part of the swamp.

On my hinting the probability that these bones might have belonged to a species of whale, Mr. S. gave me such reasons, on the authority of an intelligent zoologist, and comparative anatomist, who was preparing to give the world a description of them, as convinced me, that my conjecture was without foundation. I offered a considerable sum for these immense remains, but the proprietor refused to part with them, assuring me that it was his intention to procure the remainder of them, and then take them to Europe.

On the 3rd of April we left New Orleans, in the beautiful

xii JOURNEY FROM

steam-boat George Washington, of 375 tons, built at Cincinnati, and certainly the finest fresh-water vessel I had seen. River boats, like these, possess the advantage of not having to contend with the ocean storms, as ours have, and are therefore built in a different manner, having three decks or stories above water. The accomodations are much larger, and farther removed from the noise, heat, and motion of the machinery ; wood being the only fuel made use of, they are consequently not incommoded by the effects of the dense smoke, so annoying in some of our steam vessels. The accomodations are excellent, and the cabins furnished in the most superb manner. None of the sleeping rooms have more than two beds. The principal are on the upper story, and a gallery and verandah extends entirely round the vessel, affording ample space for exercise, sheltered from sun and rain, and commanding, from its height, a fine view of the surrounding scenery, without being incommoded by the noise of the crew passing overhead. The meals furnished in these vessels are excellent, and served in a superior style. The ladies have a separate cabin, with female attendants, and laundresses ; there are, also, a circulating library, a smoking and drinking room for the gentlemen, with numerous offices for servants, &c. &c. They generally stop twice a day to take in wood for the engine, when fresh milk and other necessities are procured, and the passengers may land for a short time. The voyage before the introduction of steam, was attended with much risk and labour, and occupied ninety days, from New Orleans to Cincinnati, for small vessels ; the same voyage (1600 miles) is now performed, with the greatest ease and safety, in eleven or twelve days, against the stream, and the descent between the above places is done in seven days ; each vessel taking several hundred passengers, besides her cargo of merchandise. The rate of travelling is extremely moderate in proportion to the advantages of the accomodation. We paid about 8l. each from New Orleans to Louisville (1500 miles), which includes every expense of living, servants, &c. In ascending this magnificent river, the Mississippi, of which the Ohio may be considered a continuation, is navigable for the largest vessels, at high water, from the Gulf of Mexico to Pittsburgh (2212 miles). The traveller is now enabled, without the least danger or fatigue, to traverse the otherwise almost impassable and trackless wilderness, and wilds, that bound the western states of America, and this, without leaving his com-

NEW ORLEANS TO NEW YORK. xiii

fortable apartment, from the windows of which he can enjoy the constantly varying scenery, so new to European travellers.

On leaving New Orleans, in ascending the river, thte country, still the same continuous flat, is enriched and enlivened by a succession of pretty houses and plantations, with each a small negro town near them, as well as the sugarhouses, gardens, and summer-houses, which give the idea of wealth and industry. For sixty miles the banks present the appearance of one continued village, skirted with plantations of cotton, sugar-cane, and rice, for about two miles from the river, bounded in the rear, by the uncultivated swamps and woods. The boat proceeds continually near the shore on one side or the other, and attracts the inhabitants to the front of their neat houses, placed amidst orange groves, and shaded with vines and beautiful evergreens. I was surprised to see the swarms of children of all colours that issued from these abodes. In infancy, the progeny of the slave, and that of his master, seem to know no distinction ; they mix in their sports, and appear as fond of each other, as the brothers and sisters of one family ; but in activity, life, joy, and animal spirits, the little negro, unconscious of his future situation, seems to me to enjoy more pleasure in this period of his existence, than his pale companions. The sultry climate of Louisiana, perhaps, is more congenial to the African constitution, than to that of the European.

The next morning we arrived at Baton Rouge, 127 miles on our journey ; a pretty little town, on the east side, and the first rising ground we had seen, being delightfully situated on a gradual acclivity, from which, is a fine view of the surrounding flats. The fine barracks close to it, contain a few companies of troops. We here stopped to take in some ladies, who continued with us to the end of the voyage. To this place the leveé, or artificial banks, are continued on both sides of the river from New Orleans, without which the land would be continually overflowed. From this to Natches (232 miles), the country is not interesting, consisting principally of dense forest and wilderness, impenetrable to the eye, diversified, however, by the various water fowl which the passing vessels disturb, in their otherwise solitary haunts, and by the number of black and gray squirrels leaping from branch to branch in the trees. The great blue kingfisher, which is common here, is so tame, as scarcely to move, as the boat passes,

xiv JOURNEY FROM and we frequently saw, and passed close to large alligators, wich generally appeared to be asleep, stretched on the halffloating logs. Several were fired at together, must have been each upwards of twelve feet long. Natches is a pleasantly situated town, on rather a steep hill, about half a mile from the landing place, where are many stores and public houses. The boat remained here an hours, and we ascended to the upper town, a considerable place, with a town-house, and several good streets and wellfurnished shops, in which we purchases some books. This place exports much cotton, and the planters are said to be rich. It commands a fine prospect over the river and surrounding country. It has been tried as a summer residence by come of the inhabitants of New Orleans, but the scourges of this part of America (fever and ague) extend their revages for more than 1000 miles higher up. A partial elevation of ground, in an unhealthy district, has been proved to be more pernicious, than even the level itself. From hence, to the junction of the Ohio, there is little to interest the stranger, excepting the diversity of wood and water. The ground rised in some places, though with little variety, till you pass the junction of the Ohio, 1253 miles for the sea. shortly after entering the Ohio, the country begins to improve ; you perceive the ground beginning to rise in the distance, and the bank occasionally to rear into small hills, which show their strata of stone, and rise into bluffs, projecting into the bends of the river, shutting it in, so as to produce the effect of sailing on a succession of the finest lakes, throughmagnificent woods, which momentarily changed their form, from the rapid motion of our boats. It was now full moon, and these scenes viewed during the clear noghts, were indescribably beautiful. The tenth day brought us to the flourishing commercial town of Louisville, in Kentucky, 1542 miles from the sea, consideres as second only to Cincinnati, in the western states. It is situated in the commencement of the health district, but was lately visited. The streets are spacious and regular, the houses mostly of brick, and the shops and stores large, and well filled with merchandise. The falls of the Ohio, which are at this place, excepting at high water, prevent large vessels from passing up ; we therefore left the Washington, and embarked in a smaller vessel, above the falls. On our road up from Shipping-

NEW ORLEANS TO NEW YORK. XV

port, at the foot of the falls, we had an opportunity of examining the fine canal and locks, now constructing at great expense, to enable vessels of all dimensions to navigate the river at all seasons. It is a great work, and calculated to be of considerable advantage to this country. We took a hackney coach, of which there were several in the streets, and proceeded to view the town, which is much more extensive than it appears. We visited the museum, an appendage to almost every American town. among the fossil remains, therein, I observed the perfect skull and horns of a species of eik, which was new to me. The firing of the bost's gun, the constant singal for passengers to come on board, obliged us to shorten our survey, and in a few minuted we were again proceedings up the Ohio in a steam-boats, with most of our late companions, and many additional passengers. I must here observe, that the society in the steam-boats is generally very pleasant, consisting of well informed, intelligent people, attentive and obliging to strangers, readily pointing out to their notice every thing worthy of observation, or that can contribute to raise their opinion of the country and its constitution, of which they are, with good reason, proud. They universally complain of the injustice done them by English writers, who they say, seem to have come among them only to misrepresent what little they have seen of the country, and that, perhaps, like myself, from the deck of a stean-boat.

On leaving Louisville, the magnificence of the American rivers and scenery seemed to commence. In no part of the world, that I have seen, are these surpasses in grandeur, or variety, every mile affording a perpetual change. The trees attain here an altitude, and size, unknown in Europe, and their diversity of form and colour, formed a contrast with the monotonous green of the wilderness below. Among the snowlike blossom of the dog-wood, and bright scarlet of the redbud, which were conspicuous in the woods that now covered the sloping banks of the river, the openings between, at intervals, exhibited rich pasture lands with comfortable farmhouses, surrounded with gardens, orchards, and vineyards, and convinced the traveller, that he had left the regious of swamps and marshes, fevers and agues, and arrived at those of hill and dale, pasturage and health. We now saw greater numbers of land and water fowl. The beautiful little summer duck was plentiful--we shot several; andthe black vulture was occasionally seen. In our passage up the river we had