Three Accounts of the Vasil'ev-Shismarev Expedition of 1819-1822

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succeeded in nearing the shore, but the calm again detained us at the sea and we were forced to remain another 24 hours under sail, in sight of the quiet, beautiful harbor.

On the 21st we were so close to shore that we were able to take advantage of the rising sea breeze* and enter the harbor, but as it was formed of a coral reef covered with water during high tides and extending in a wide arc from north to south--and we knew that the entrance was loctaed only on this latter side--then our captain, for safety, ordered our raising the kaiser flag on the fore-topgallant mast and firing a cannon to request a pilot.

Soon we saw several pirogues rowing toward us from the harbor. On one of them were two Englishmen, the sailors, Bottle [Harbottle] and Yorn. The first one, coming on deck, introduced himself as the pilot of His Hawaiian Majesty in Hanaruro [ Honolulu ] Harbor, and introduced Yorn as his apprentice. The latter immediately returned ashore to report to the governor of the island by name of Poki [Boki] about the arrival of a Russian naval vessel, and to request permission to guide it into the harbor. Meanwhile, the wind started to

*Near the shore of the southern regions of the globe, generally, if not prevented by severe storms or hurricanes, the wind blows from the shore at night and to the shore in the daytime, reaching its greatest velocity toward midnight and noon.

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die down and Bottle decided to guide us in without waiting for an answer, especially as it was impossible to expect a refusal.

With the aid of a tow, we safely crossed the passage, which is no wider than a hundred sazhens and cast anchor at the depth of nine sazhens directly opposite the fortress of Kahumanna, which immediately saluted us with eight shots and received the same number as an answer to its greeting.

The "Discovery" entered soon after us, and was met with the same honor.

The fortress, Kahumanna [now usually spelled Kaahumanau] so-called after the name of the stepmother of the reigning king, is built not at the entrance, but on the low bank right across the middle of the harbor and consists of a square redoubt with a low earthen rampart on which are placed 32 castiron firearms of various caliber beginning with a 12-pound cannon to a 48-pound howitzer. They all stood on naval guncarriages. The engineer who built this fortress evidently was a native, because it was impossible to choose a worse place for it. The shore on which it stands and the rampart itself are so low that cannon balls from the smallest vessel could, without effort, knock the firearms off the emplacements and silence them.

Hanaruro Harbor of the same name as the settlement beyond the fortress extending along the shore is not very large and you can accomodate no more than 50 vessels, but is very

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quiet. The coral reef protecting it from the sea surf leaves such a narrow opening that the surf cannot penetrate inside, especially as the passage is located on the west side of the island, and in the tropics where the trade winds prevail, the surf generally advances from the east. This naturallyformed harbor is unique in the whole group of Hawaiin Islands, and since it was formed from a coral reef, which usually expands gradually, the opening must close in time, and then navigators will lose a quiet beautiful spot for rest and for provisioning with fresh food and water. Some native elders remembered when the passage was three times as large as then. The shores, up to the mountains, which constitute the interior of the island, are in the shapre of a sloping plane covered with perpetual greenery, bordered right near the water by a narrow sandy strip beyond which is located in a semicircle the settlement of Hanaruro, consisting of native huts and two houses built in the European style. One of these houses, situated directly opposite the harbor, was built in two stories from boards by American traders and sold to the king. But the king domself does not live in it, and gave it to his stepmother, Kahumanna. On the top story are her private rooms and below are quartered her court retinue.

The other house, situated on the northeastern end of the settlements, is a stone one, surrounded by the same kind of wal, six feet high, belonged to a Spaniard who settled there by the name of Marhini [Francisco de Paula Marin] . The houses,

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soldiers distributed on all the islands. They were fitted out in red English uniforms, but without breeches or headdress. It was impossible to look at them without laughing, because with their red skin they resembled dressed-up monkeys. Forty thousand guns were kept in a fortress built on a hill beyond the settlement of Hanaruro. There, too, were several field pieces with caissons belonging to them and all other appurtenances. The fleet consisted of nine frigates and four schooners, including the yacht. These vessels were commanded by the English, and the sailors were the natives. The captains could not find enough praise for the dexterity and intelligence of these people. The sailing of Hawaiin vessels extended not only to the islands, but they sailed even to Canton. For the coming summer, the king wanted to send a brig with salt to Kamchatka and to take from there salted and dried fish, which the Hawaiins like very much, but do not know how to prepare..

The incomes of the king were not definite and depended on the circumstances because there were no regular taxes or collections. When the king needed money, he ordered a new hut built for him and the old one demolished. Having moved, he placed large clay pots at the doors, near which stood guards and one of the king's retinue. Throughout the whole island messengers were sent with information about it and every male citizen more than ten years old was obliged to deposit a Spanish piaster in the pot. This collection was repeated two or three times a year on every island, depending on the needs