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than this morning. But it was still warm and pleasant, and we passed through
some very nice flat forests much like those we saw in north Germany out of
Oldenburg. As we approached Heppenheim we came in sight of a range of high
hills (or low mountains, depending on whether you're an American or a German)
which runs north-south toward Heidelberg. We ride right along the foot of these
tomorrow - it should be beautiful. Right behind Heppenheim is one of the highest
hills in the range, and on its top the ruins of the old Starkenburg castle.
Sure enough, when we looked in the hostel book, we found that the hostel
was located right on the top of that highest hill, beside the castle! You
got to be strong and healthy to stay in hostels - after biking about 70 km
today we ended by pushing our bikes up this hill for 45 minutes. But it
was surely worth it, for as we neared the top we could look out across
the range of mountains and over the big valley to the west toward the
Rhein, and down into several smaller, narrower valleys with winebergs
on the hillsides and towns nestled in the valleys. Its a magnificent view
in every direction! After a delicious dinner from our own packs
4 thick slices each of
(bread and jam, eggs, liverwurst, a half can of pineapple each, raisin
cake with chocolate frosting, and the rest of our bottle of Rhein wine)
we went out after dark to walk around for about 45 minutes. Looking
down on the town of Heppenheim and the lights of other villages in the
distance was very reminiscent of our view from the top of Tallac, though
not quite as high. And added to this the shadowy outlines of the castle
ruins, the cool evening breeze and the stars overhead, the sounds
rising from miles away in the quiet of a clear night - it was really
wonderful. Again darling, it would have been so much more special if
you could have been here with me, but I held you close in my heart and
though only of you at every moment, so I wasn't really alone.

It's bedtime now - there only one other fellow beside Bridge and
me, so it's another family-style evening with the hostel parents. These
are much nicer than the factory style which permeates the large
hostels, and which will be everywhere in the summer. We're lucky
to be out-of-season travelers. But boy you couldn't wish for better
weather than we had today, and hope to have from now on. And with
the trees blooming its really gorgeous. G'night, my dearest - I love
you with all my heart - only 75 days now, a quarter of the 100
gone already! See you soon - and mail tomorrow!! I love you!
Your George